travel with harley

one fish, two fish

2010-04-01T23:19:00.010-04:00

we are inundated with all things scaly. if it swims, it's been on our plates - and more specifically, andi's plate. when he relented in cape town last year, and finally decided that fish was okay for a vegetarian to explore, we didn't know it would become a staple of his diet. and how sweet it is.

tel aviv is hopping ... is there anyplace that has a younger feel? a quick glance reveals a south beach look alike - palm lined trees, low slung buildings, high rise hotels, a promenade. it all looks pretty, tropical, vibrant. and yet it also seems to be crumbling here and there, wires exposed, alleys that look neglected. a wondrous mess and a shiny jewel. this is one big 'nolita' - clothing shops abound, coffee bars, everyone young and fit and gorgeous. and very self-consciously cool and hip.

the weather is heavenly, and despite jane's love of spring in israel, the kids and i still prefer late summer's intense and searing heat (uncomfortable but distinctly 'middle eastern').

good luck finding anything that resembles kosher food or passover approved items ... bread is ubiquitous, as is shrimp, lobster, pork. amazing to be in this metropolis and see everyone eating foccaccia instead of matzah. somehow, things will change tomorrow when we go to jerusalem.

a steady stream of friends and family have kept us busy. we manage a pre-arranged visit to the palmach museum, quite inspiring historically. lunch at martha's and back to the beach, where marlee is with friends, ilana and louis come looking for the munich contingent, and we loll on the fine sand while the kids play 'matkot' and eat ice cream. we visit the lewitans' friends at their newly renovated two level penthouse apartment - incredible, with stunning views and rooftop pool - and venture out to sheinkin for a fine and relaxed dinner which ends past midnight.

exhausted, we rise today and sneak off to jaffa with andi - he has insisted that he get his 'tallit' (prayer shawl) for his bar mitzvah at gabrieli, the same shop that jared bought his years ago. we stroll through this part of south tel aviv which is quaint and charming, and andi picks the perfect version, a gift from my father to him to mark this time in his life.

we rush back to our seaside hotel for a quick workout, and jared's friend aden arrives from jerusalem. more fish at a late lunch at manta ray, and the kids leave us for an afternoon at the beach. we have coffee at vivi's parents lovely home - too much cake, coffee, grand marnier fruits, all so fresh. we admire elias' paintings, their terrace garden, and the 'grown ups' enjoy a little time off ...

back 'home' just in time to take over the lobby of the hotel, and in burst a small portion of jane's extended family, who gather to regale us with stories in arabic and hebrew. they are vibrant and funny and loud and engaged and we take more capuccino, cookies, cakes. they take their leave hours later and we rush to make a 9:30 pm dinner at herbert samuel, a foodies dream. waves of courses arrive at our swanky table, and coming in starving means we over order. but it's all so good, so tasty, so finely presented ... we languish for hours enjoying the wine, the salads, and more fish! exhausted, we return home, ready for a day in the old city ...

lebanese blonde

2010-03-30T16:41:00.005-04:00

how sweet it is!

expecting a cooler day today, we decide to take a day trip - it's full on sun, and when we get out of the hotel, we realize how warm it actually is ... no matter, we zip up the coast ... past haifa's industrial port to the border with lebanon. peering through a metal gate, marlee reaches across the bars to declare that her hand has been in lebanon (part of a game that we still play when crossing the border from canada into the usa ... our 'feet' are in america, our shoulders still up north, etc.). we descend the craggy cliff via cable car to the grottos of rosh hanikrah - i haven't been here in 30 years, and jane was last here as a schoolgirl where she practically slipped into a bubbling pool and met an early demise.

the kids think it's cool, and watch in darkness as the waves flow into and out of the 'caves'. suddenly a tsunami-like explosion pushes forth after a gentle ebb, and they are completely drenched by the wave, screaming and laughing - it is SO hysterical to see them so excited by this ... non-jaded for a moment, impressed with the force.

we revitalize with ice cream and drive back south to the fortified and very arab town of akko. we were here a few years ago ... the seafront promenade which heads towards the outer walls seems improved and elegant. the town is lively today, and we are spoiled by a young man selling all manner of organic, artisinal 'kashi' bars! nuts of all sorts, pressed with honey and essences into flat cakes, which he expertly and generously slices through with a palette. halvah, sesame, almond, pistachio - all beautifully prepared and displayed in front of the citadel, in a shaded side alley. it is heaven, and we suddenly find ourselves laden down with these delicacies, ignoring our first rule - no plastic. the pink bags sadly hang from our wrists, and we glumly make our way towards the citadel's unearthed passages and chambers ... amazing and striking in their construction and simplicity. the day has flown by - how can it be 4pm?

we pass back through haifa, waving to the baha'i gardens (memories of another visit!) and get completely lost. i take the minivan into a mini-space and really find myself in a jam - prompting me to back out s-l-o-w-l-y with encouragement and awe emanating from the kids.

we make our way back down the coast to herzliyah - ahh, herzliyah, our former hangout. california like with its bluffs and expanses of beach and ocean - ilana and louis and the girls are waiting, having just arrived from munich two days ago. we reunite on the beach - glorious and happy - staking a spot at our favorite beach bar. ari, our uruguayan server, is excited to see us back, and he's a sight for sore eyes! all are happy - and hummus, falafel, grilled fish, and wine are brought forth to enjoy as the sun begins to set. we exchange stories, laugh, and catch up - and decide to have dinner together at our much beloved zozobra - no noodles of course! i take a run up the shore towards ra'anana, which is heavenly, while everyone showers and changes.

dinner is fun and casual - marlee's been dreaming of this - and we follow it up with gelato (70% dark chocolate? impossibly great!). the night air is cool as we sit around and reminisce, finally deciding that tomorrow is another day. it's back to tel aviv, hopping again after the holiday ...

the exodus

2010-03-30T00:38:00.010-04:00

no frogs, no wild beasts, no boils or locusts. no wondering in the desert, worshiping golden calves.

just a simple one hour el al flight - that's all that prompts our arrival in the holy land. we are not ready to leave egypt - it's been incredible, iconic, action packed, delicious, and fun. let my people stay!

alas, it is time to leave ... we pack up and prepare to head for cairo international ... ali, our driver for the day, pushes us through the belching traffic and we submit to extreme security. it's hard to imagine that, as we relax on the israeli jet which will shuttle us to ben gurion airport, that not that long ago, this flight would have been impossible. egypt and israel, sworn enemies in battle, now at peace, even if at times that stability is fraught with tension.

finally back in israel - my father has landed, and is at the hotel waiting for us. this is our third time in israel with the kids - the final part of the bar and bat mitzvah trilogy - and my mother had joined us on previous visits. it's sad to know that she is not here with us this time, recognizing that she would have loved visiting israel for passover, enjoying the seder meal here, and the spring weather - so different than the summer heat which she did not love on the last two trips. we miss her.

ahhhh, israel. so lovely, so hip, so non-service oriented! did we really reserve a car, they ask at the counter (of course we did, playing out the charade of lost reservations). are we sure we booked those rooms at the hotel (here's the paperwork, daaaahhhhling). all is good, we retire exhausted.

arnie is up in the morning, jet-lagged but great, and we enjoy breakfast. finally, a chance to unpack. our tiny carry-on bags seem like russian dolls - each one opens revealing more things that need shelf space, hangars, bathroom counter. did we really bring that much? how can it be, no bags were checked. it seemingly takes hours of strategizing to get organized, shed our suitcases, find all those plugs - ipods, iphones, macbooks, israeli mobiles, cameras - such insanity!

we are situated right on the beach in tel aviv, and not to sound like liberty travel, but there really is a golden crescent of sand with mediterranean waves lapping at the shore directly beneath our balcony (a perfect perch for jane and i to enjoy a glass of wine while the kids play matkot in the late afternoon sun!). heavenly.

dizengoff street is hopping, everyone purchasing bunches of gorgeous flowers for the upcoming passover holiday - long stemmed white gladiolis, spring mixes - and there's a buzz in the air. the bauhaus center, the amazing shops (marlee pops in for an indigo dress), a fine lunch of delicious israeli salads ... tel aviv is cool and funky. love it! ilana and louis call, they've arrived from munich with the girls, and we can't wait to see them tomorrow!

back to the hotel for a late afternoon workout (we all sneak down to the gym - so funny for us to be working out with our teens), although we mysteriously forget andi in his room ... he eventually texts us asking if jared and marlee are in our room getting something, trying to put the pieces together - so cute.

we collect ourselves and get ready for seder dinner at the swanky carlton hotel, arranged months before. we arrive to meet vivi's parents as planned, looking great and welcoming, and we have the most spectacular table prepared for us - flowers (again!), a lovely ceremonial seder plate, hagaddah books - and other large families likewise gathering for the ritual. we read and sing, recalling the jewish exodus from egypt - sounds familiar - and enjoy an amazing feast which is both bountiful and excellent!

an amazing first day here, thinking of our friends celebrating around the world!

xo

pyramid scheme!

2010-03-28T20:29:00.007-04:00

from the egyptian gazette, 28 march 2010

a university professor has successfully divorced her husband after he refused to stop eating his breakfast, which consists of cooked fava beans and green onions, at streetside cartes outside the university where they worked. the situation led to daily arguments between the couple from the 6th of october governorate and she filed for divorce for feeling embarrassed to see her husband eating with workers and what she called the riff-raffs of society. granting her application, a family court judge said the wife had been picking arguments with her husband everyday “on the grounds that she was ashamed to see him eating fuul with workers and joking with them in the street”. the husband’s lawyers argued in court that the woman’s claims of feeling ashamed by her husband’s action were false because fuul meddamis is a main staple for egyptians, who enjoy eating it a home or in the street”.

welcome to cairo.

hosni mubarek is back on terra firma after spending weeks in germany following gall bladder surgery. and life goes on - marital squabbles about status - now this is my kind of town!

at least my wife brings something to the table - a full palette of alphabet soup. with a bit of prodding, i get jane to shed her resistance to fully immersing herself in this culture, and she relents - with a torrent of arabic, her mother tongue. how great - we can make ourselves known! although truthfully, english is so prolific here on both banks of the nile, it’s really not a problem.

when we first thought of egypt, we had (minor!) trepidations, all completely unfounded. morocco, which we spun through a few years ago with the kids, seemed easy - almost european. french was our path, roads were spotless, people were easy. egypt is morocco light, much to our shock. the witty and funny people, the language, the signage, the ease of getting around - and above all, the transparency! it’s easy to ascertain exactly what’s happening - mainly, if people are trying to shake you down. quite charming actually!

we finish up our brief time in luxor with a lovely morning at the hotel - a workout looking towards queen hatshepsut’s temple in the distance titillates on the treadmill. a delicious and copious breakfast sets us all straight. we’ve found a driver for the day, who ferries us back and forth - to the incredible and vast karnak temple (with it’s massive columns, long arcade, open plazas - amazing again!), back to town for souk shopping (success!), and finally, back to luxor airport for some wifi and our flight to cairo.

on the shuttle bus, off the shuttle bus, we make it back to the capital and squeeze through traffic in this, africa’s largest metropolis. teeming with people, cars, smog, buildings, lights - it’s mumbai light, exhilarating, fantastic, insane. we arrive at the marriott and presto-change-o, we are stylish and chic, ready for a divine 9:30 pm dinner reservation (blessedly right around the corner!). we dine amongst fashionable locals at la bodega, sipping martinis, eating elegantly and well into the evening (truffled pappardelle?) ... we return ‘home’ at midnight - too late - and flop into bed, ready for our 6 am closeup.

today - the most amazing day! the holy grail of egyptian tourism - the pyramids of giza. we make our way first through tour groups at the hotel, then through millions of buses, to arrive at these amazing structures. we have an early start, so it’s blissfully quiet, relaxed, and stunning - the scale, the ‘materiality’ - it all seems right, picture-postcard perfect. we walk, we gaze, we ponder (and that’s just thinking about lunch!). the sphinx awaits, and we make our way there too ... an unbelievable and inspiring morning, we peer out to the desert, to cairo creeping onto the giza plain, to the tourists from every corner - a true vortex of energy -

we make our way back to cairo, feeling as if we’ve accomplished our ‘short list’ of ‘to-dos’ in egypt and make a pass through the egyptian museum - musty and in bad disrepair, yet housing the incredible ‘king tut’ artifacts we’ve all come to know - the striped gold mask, the funerary elements, the gilded ‘coffins’ - amazing (all the more because of the lax security and casual display methods - practically post-its!).

we retire to the comfort of our hotel - we are checked in for our flight to tel aviv this evening, and decide to forego more of cairo for a (very) late lunch by the pool (fatoush salad in honor of my mother - her favorite!), enjoying the warm egyptian sun and a swim ...

more from tel aviv to follow!

h

love from luxor!

2010-03-27T10:43:00.005-04:00

not las vegas, but (pardon the pun!) the real deal.

deep in the heart of 'upper egypt' we are unearthing the ancient sites and catching a few of the modern ones too! a much delayed twelve hour flight brings us in directly over the pyramids just before sunset (incredible!) and a final approach into cairo ... sprawling, mad, and yet somehow gentle. we seem to get shaken down by the security screeners at the airport, but we are unrelenting - jane, with her wry baghdadi ways, doesn't fall for it and we feign ignorance when they promise to rummage through our luggage. smiling brightly, we are idiot (savants!) ... and it works! we run for our connection to luxor - a simple one hour affair, and arrive somewhat exhausted. the hotel - great fun, a behemoth, overdone - and a delicious lebanese meal follows (thankfully!). jetlagged and exhausted, we stow the carry-ons and flop out, exhausted.

our first full day in luxor finds us up early - 6 am - and downstairs at the edge of the nile, relishing a huge middle eastern breakfast ... so yummy, gracious, and amazing to eat whilst staring out to the 'west bank' of this famous river. we have an appointment at the bike shop - arranged months in advance, despite fervent protests from the family - to pick up five cycles for a 50 kilometer trek on the other side of the nile ... the valley of the kings awaits! all is smooth, we meet our guide (jane's touch) and ride through town to reach our felucca which will ferry us across to our starting point. effortlessly, we make it to the other side, and ride through a string of 'pearls' - little rural villages dotting the sugar cane fields. donkeys, men in 'jallabias', veiled women - and everyone is smiling. the egyptians are warm and welcoming, but most surprising, are completely hysterical! they reply with an odd, dry sense of humor ... making us feel relaxed and at ease. we feel completely safe and free here - not quite what we were expecting - and perhaps other voyages have prepared us (or jaded us?). everyone thinks our family is 'sporty' (or are they saying sportive?) ... how ironic given jane and i with our spasdicated athletic nature!

first stop, valley of the kings, to see the tomb of king tut, and a series of varied sloping chambers leading to actual burial places. we are incredibly lucky ... the last few weeks, the temperature has been 110 to 115 degrees everyday. we hit the 'low' - a sunny and dry 85 degrees with a slight breeze and a cloudless sky - heavenly for our robust ride! kashi bars in tow, we return from the 'place of death' - amazing - and continue on to what we've all been dreaming about seeing - the temple of queen hatshepsut, built 'petra-like' into the huge mountainside. it is literally heart-stopping and unbelievable, and we can hardly contain our excitement ... for me, i have been waiting for this moment, and it's as good as it gets! we spend our time staring out across the alternately lush floodplain landscape and the the craggy dry rockfaces, soaking in the columned facade of the temple.

onward and upward, we pedal towards another temple - one we are not familiar with - the temple of habou. it's late afternoon, and we're sure that we are on our way to see something less than spectacular. the entry, at the end of the village, promises nothing - and we hand in our tickets only to be completely blown away ... incredible! a massively scaled structure with layers upon layer of hieroglyphics, histories piled one atop another - we thank andi for his upcoming bar mitzvah, the genesis for this trip and these experiences.

we pass the colossus of memnon, and head back for a sail across the nile, then homeward bound. finally, back at the hotel late afternoon, it's time to lounge by the pool, have a drink, and watch the sun die out over the west bank. it gets colder immediately and we scurry up to change again, and negotiate a driver to take us for a lit-up evening walk through luxor temple - worthy of anything you could conjure up (indiana jones? arabian nights?), it's equally awe-inspiring and enormous and impressive.

a thai dinner, with kids tasting our egyptian beer much to jane's horror (she in the wc - what can i say?) we dine, laugh, and sleep (well, i do - at the table!). exhausted, slightly sunburnt, and happy, we are ready for day 2!

tomorrow, the gym, temple of karnak, a bit of souk shopping, and onto cairo! the pyramids and sphinx await ...

love from luxor!

i love LA!

2009-03-02T16:38:00.006-05:00

as the song goes!

i fly down state, leaving a dreary san francisco behind me, and a great evening at the contemporary jewish museum as well. sounds of sheryl crow whisper in my ear as i de-plane at LAX, bopping down the concourse to a waiting naomi! reminiscent of an earlier time, when she also 'attempts' to greet us at los angeles international - we are on our way back to new york from a month in thailand - and our dear friend has a basket of breakfast waiting for us (so characteristically sweet). however, our flight is late, our connection tight that time; the airline sends us through back passages so we can make our flight home, and we miss naomi completely! none of us have cell phones (this is, after all, the pre-google era of dinosaurs roaming the earth), so we are ships, or planes, that pass in the night.

and we're off, to culver city for lunch in this very cool district. jason joins us - he's great! we have enormous salads, beer, and talk about recycling, the environment, hillary and barack - so refreshing to be with smart and conscious friends!

we continue ... palm trees, sunshine, hysterical laughter ... and pick up the girls. at once, we are serious, huddled in meaningful conversation; then suddenly, it turns, and we are goons! naomi insists that we must walk to 'toppings' for a pre-dinner snack of low-fat frozen yogurt; the girls (adorable!) carefree on scooters, me on my rickety two legs (almost 100 years old between the two of them!). oh, the agony! had i known that i would be walking ten miles (or so it seems) in either direction for my delectable treat i'd have hailed a cab (do they do that in the city of angels?). memories of frequent visits to l.a. - with the kids when they were younger, before every school break descended into a tour of donkeys and exotic cultures - dance in my head.

we finally reach our destination, have our muli-topped yogurt (so good) and head back to beverlywood. it's magnificent to stroll outside in february, even on the heels of our south african dalliance. sunshine, cars. LA is in fact, a city of cars - and quite suitably designed for the beast. gas stations (BP) are ultra cool; drive through windows beckon, and everything is made to be visualized at 45 mph. parking is easy, the scale is 'low', and lots of light hits the pavement. it seems strange to romanticize this aspect of the city; however, it really 'works' and makes it quite livable - much more so than the tangle of streets that characterize the northeast's suburban sprawl. not to mention that the drives, at least off the freeway, are civilized.

we hang at home, then it's off to the avalon for cocktails and snacks, poolside. a smart hotel with a lovely courtyard pool, candelight, great seating; when we arrive, we are seated next to the bamboo grove under the stars immediately. WHAT? how is this possible? thursday night in LA, at a swanky and cool locale. how can we three possibly snag a fantastic table like this? i haven't quite figured that one out yet - if this was new york, you wouldn't even be able to walk INTO a place like this, any night. let alone get a table, a cocktail promptly, and some delicious finger food (turkey sliders on brioche! gourmet 'fish and chips'!).

we retire, and talk way past our bedtime - i still am on shaky ground as far as the time zones go.

morning brings greek yogurt from the stone age - thanks naomi - which i insist will only bolster my immune system. naomi's gorgeous girls are off, and so are we ... me in jason's 'spinning' shoes. naomi has elected to take me to THE spinning class in LA - tevia's (sic?) class. i've been told that if i'm tired (or on the verge of angioplasty no. 2) at any point during the 45 minute (!) torture, i can 'sit down' on the bike. what? aren't i going to be sitting down whilst riding? no, no, no - you 'stand' on, or over, the pedals, moving your tiny legs (aged as noted, already exhausted from the frozen yogurt escapade) rapidly to the music and tevia's optimistic, microphone enhanced thoughts.

i sweat a bucket but manage to: 1. live through the experience; 2. survive LA's lethal body conscious scene without anyone snickering; 3. have a great time with naomi! we reward ourselves handsomely at urth café off melrose - yummy cheese plate fit for a king, or a deflated new yorker who's exhausted! an enormous latté follows, along with 54 cent confitures and a fresh squeezed oj. we are so blessed to be outside, in workout clothes, having petit dejeuner in the sunlight!

yet, what's for lunch? we propose abbot kinney, the fun part of venice, and head there only after a brief shower. i am flying home at night, and we are determined to get to as many eateries as possible! we immediately scope out a new restaurant - perfect and cool and delicious - and propose a lengthy stroll before dining (as we've just eaten minutes earlier!). however, our stomachs and eyes get the best of us; we make it up half a block, immediately turn around, and proceed to gorge ourselves in the fantastic GJELINA. this place is stunning and uber hip. we are at a communal table, inquiring as to the pedigree of each dish. what would you suggest, and the waiter responds. we accept some of his offerings, reject others. he nods approvingly, and we share a spectacular soup, it's base at least a liter of olive oil. it's worth noting that we reject the large plate of french fries - too much oil for our lithe bodies - and ironically the soup is appropriately and deliciously swimming in said viscous liquid. how sad for us! we stop the proprietor, who is attending to one of the actors from the movie 'he's just not that into you' and inquire if a smaller platter of fries is available. nope, just the one (huge) size. we decide, oddly, NOT to go for it (there is gelato, after all). nonetheless, he returns momentarily, wielding a small plate with samples of the beloved crispy potatoes - how nice!

full and happy, we ponder gelato on this design street, or picking up the girls and going to beverly hills with them for ice cream there. we opt for the latter - although they insist that another walk to toppings would suit them fine - not me, i'm out of breath thinking about the ice cream. it's off to BH - we park conveniently, and i admonish naomi once again - parking in LA is easy, and there never seems to be any traffic! she protests, insisting that the wednesday evening before thanksgiving the freeway was totally backed up. that's all she could come up with! the LIE in new york is backed up on tuesday evenings at midnight in the middle of winter! we could teach those westerners a thing or two about intensity!

rodeo drive is deserted - 5 pm on a friday, nary a foreign tourist or movie star in sight. where have all the dollars gone? not here.

jason and the girls join us, and after an episode of the partridge family, our lovely time together draws to a close. we venture out to typhoon for dinner at the santa monica airport - and have a great meal. naomi and jason are lovely, generous, funny; and we say our sad farewells! of course, they get me to the airport with plenty of time to catch the red-eye home - NOT! perpetually resistant to arriving on time for flights, they transfer their laissez-faire-ness to me; i am forced to remove my giant metal belt buckle in the car, running furiously through security - more x-rated x-rays, and settle in for the short hop home.

back to reality, after being a makeshift road warrior the past few weeks - and loving it!

hello, bart!

2009-03-02T16:19:00.003-05:00

last week, upon returning from cape town, i have the distinct pleasure of hopping on another plane - this time clear across the u.s. - to california for two nights ... further rendering my sense of time and place null and void. i am off to the golden state for an exhibit (including my work) at the new contemporary jewish museum of san francisco, recently revived architecturally by none other than starchitect daniel liebeskind.

i promptly arrive in the city by the bay, not quite certain which time zone i'm in ... gmt+2? pst? est? no matter, a swift and somewhat tortured ride into town on BART, the bay area's response to mass transit, and i'm at my hotel. a quick walk - this part of downtown is both chic and seedy - union square, market street, and a hop on the treadmill - then i'm off. a glass or two of napa wine in the club lounge - actually, my hotel is extraordinarily convenient, my room with sweeping views.

the museum really is stunning. centrally located just a block from SF MoMA, right in the heart of the city, it's prime real estate. the 1900's building has just received it's face lift, and two glass rhombuses rise obtusely from the more staid original building. diamonds of windows beckon ...

inside, it's packed! a beautiful 6pm gala is in full swing ... the space is dynamic and full of energy. good food (grilled vegetables, smoked salmon, et al), great wines from sonoma ... mmm, so good, so fitting. there are a ton of people attending this evening, everyone decked out in quite formal cocktail attire ... kind of nice and swanky. onto the exhibit, where there are eighty 'seder' plates on display - actually, the 'theme' IS the passover seder plate, but so many of the pieces are conceptual (mine included), making it hard to label many of them as 'functional' objects for the rituals of this jewish holiday.

i talk with the curators, meet many of the artists, say hello to patrons, and get an up-close-and-personal look at the museum's architecture and other exhibits. like the show that i am in, the works are artfully displayed - great spaces, great lighting - really a joy to experience!

by the time the evening is over, i'm zonked - it's late by new york time, even later in cape town, where my biological clock is still ticking. so off i go, slumped into my bed, ready for the next day ... an early morning workout, a light breakfast, and back to the airport for my midday flight to los angeles to see my dear friends.

however, even before i, the early riser, has a chance to bolt up in the morning, my mobile rings - my flight has been cancelled. i am either on a connecting flight at 1 pm via fresno (what?!!!), or an earlier non-stop into LA. i (obviously) opt for the latter, and rush the exercise in order to make it back to the airport, change my ticket, disrobe unceremoniously for security (rather perverted, the whole experience) and rush to my plane. which of course, is delayed. to the original time that i was scheduled to fly.

the joys of travel!

and we're off, sadly!

2009-02-22T15:05:00.007-05:00

oh, why, oh why - sweet cape town, parting is such sour sorrow!

the kids benefit from our vigorous friendship with michelle and david - who insist on a delectable farewell petit dejeuner. yes, they get to sleep in, lounge about, and have breakfast in their robes poolside while the grown ups go out for an early breakfast. over lattés, farmhouse fresh food, political discussions, and learning about afrikaans, we bask in each other's now-familiar company. it's hard to believe that just a few months ago, we were strangers seated next to each other at café gitane. and here we are, intimately wrapped up in each other's lives, thoughts, beliefs - and loving it! there's debbie, and colin, and all manner of cape town's tony set! ahhh, the joys of human safari ...

yet, parting is such sweet sorrow ... and we must all be on our way. we profess undying love for each other, they drop us back at the lovely 2 inn 1, where we quickly pack up the carry-ons ... how we'll miss klaus, chris, and the gang! and just when a new french couple has arrived from paris ... we barely have a chance to break out our conjugated verbs!!!

so it's off to long street for us - a few souvenirs (like ikea, whatever can be flat packed). this area is funky, cool, and seedy - cape town's own east village - but it's a perfect place for t-shirts, small handbags, board shorts. we stock up, then quickly zip down to the v&a waterfront, much vilified by our anti-establishment family (too neatly packaged for us!) ... andi gets his soccer souvenirs and rugby ball, and it's back to manna epicure for the most savory late lunch and sweet desserts. we ingest and imbibe all that is brought forth, much to the horror of our waitress. yet, she finds it all humorous. i insist that if i'm ever to have an eatery, this would be it - clean, white, fresh, with the most incredible food and staff. you just feel amazing being in this place - heaven!

it's time for the airport, we kiss and hug anyone that will have us - chris and klaus promise a visit to new york, and we relish our last moments at this boutique, exquisite hotel. goodbye table mountain; au revoir lion's head; adios camps bay ... we loved you, now we must leave you!

back to where it all begins ... the impeccable cape town airport. we glide through security, and alas, jane finds her much beloved orange feather 'hat' - the very same that has adorned our bedroom for the last eight nights. i am sent along, and she makes her purchase, which brings her much joy and happiness ...

we are greeted warmly and serendipitously by michael and leesa and their girls - so nice, and what a surprise to see them on our flight - although we've never met personally, we've heard all good things about them from ruth and andrew - fun!

nineteen hours later, we are home, having lived through a nine hour flight to dakar, senegal, and an eight hour flight back to jfk. there is an email from klaus and chris, telling us they miss our energy - we feel the same way! ... quickly to nolita for breakfast at café gitane (stopping to chat with all the regulars, all of whom have already been to cape town!) before heading home. the first thing we do upon entering the house? we hang jane's feathers proudly over the fireplace - a tangible and perfect end to the memories of this, the most incredible swedler holiday yet.

but not the last ...

hey mr. sandman

2009-02-20T23:03:00.007-05:00

friday in cape town. good times, but we have serious business to get down to!

but first, our word from our sponsor:

a FULL day of beach fun ... we all get up early, and after enjoying (another!) delicious breakfast, we're off for a drive - over kloof neck, with the spectacular coast opening up to us on all sides ... over to bantry bay, passing the monte carlo-esque clifton beaches ... winding our way, hugging the shore - heavenly! we pass salt, wakame, newport deli; we soak in the incredibly modern and ultra cool architecture (they build with real brick here, not wood toothpicks like in the u.s.!). finally, we are at delicious camps bay again, a golden crescent of sand ringed with palm trees, table mountain, lion's head, and the twelve apostles. we sunscreen furiously, making sure to cover every inch of exposed skin (this is summer in africa, after all!). we have all the necessary accoutrements - beach chairs, matkot paddles, ipods - and down to some serious beach time!

i take a run along the coast, almost making it to the hotel bearing the dozen apostles names ... and head back, feeling, literally, alive. it is heaven on earth here - spectacular, easy, fantastic, sparkly. we think, every minute, what we were doing last week at this time; what we'll be doing next week at this time; and we pinch ourselves to be so lucky, so blessed to be here together enjoying all of this.

the day passes lazily and easily - pizza on the beach for the kids, sand games, reading, walking ... michelle and dave text us ... david has just returned from his business trip to botswana, and they must simply have a drink with us! done - we agree to meet at 'blues', overlooking the beach, around 4 or so. just as we are crossing the street to meet them, they pass us by, hooting to our delight! we share afternoon cocktails on the terrace of this sexy lounge, looking out to our own kids who are still availing themselves of afternoon delight on the beach. drinks, great conversation, good food all ensue - and we agree on the absolute necessity of meeting for breakfast the following morning, our 'send off'.

back at 2 inn 1 kensington, klaus, chris, and team continue to spoil us ... late afternoon cocktails (again!), we quickly get ready for dinner at aubergine. more springbok, lamb, ostrich, and fish arrive; cheese plates and soufflés come and go, as do bottles of wine and sparkling water. we laugh, i fall asleep at the table - horrible! my plans for all night dancing with the kids at 'la med', on the beach, are dashed by my old age!

darn, and just when cape town was starting to make me feel SO young!

grey skies are gonna clear up

2009-02-19T17:52:00.009-05:00

andi gets busy at camps bay:

things we love about cape town:
1. craggy rock formations, defying all common sense as they shoot up at every point in the city
2. beaches (also defying all common sense) which ring brief interludes in said landscape
3. easy and unpretentious people - cool and humble, not hyper-hip (very bad indeed!) ... including the fun friends we've made!
4. vintage VW beetles everywhere, with graphic license plates that start with CA (cape town)
5. fresh food
6. it's diminutive size - this place is tiny! which means this place is easy!
7. parking and parking attendants (in their bright vests) - beyond ridiculous - it's possible (and probable) to park directly in front of ANY place that one wishes to go - all the time!
9. our home away from home, 2 inn 1 kensington, run by klaus and chris ... ultra modern, warm, cool, friendly, easy
10. the price tag - value, value, value for the best quality, quality, quality!

today, i look outside - is it possible? is that ... wait, no it can't be ... oh, dear. yes, it has drizzled, and a light rain has made my terrace ever-so-slick. i panic, then take deep cleansing breaths. i'll let jane sleep a bit, and i'll rustle up some tall lattés in elegant and thin glasses. when sleeping beauty emerges, we enjoy our breakfast in bed, and promise to let the kids sleep. we watch part of the movie 'waitress', which we happened to have seen on our computer exactly one year ago, as jane goes through a round of chemo ... what a difference a year makes (happily!).

i decide to go out for a run ... the weather has suddenly cleared and it's a comfortable day with light clouds. not a vigorous runner to begin with - just some cardio, really - i find myself covering all of the mother city in an hour! there's where we ate two nights ago; that's the shop we popped into the second day; that's where jared wants to go for burgers tonight. literally, all of downtown and the city bowl suburbs!

when i get back, we decide that our 'gift' to the kids - letting them sleep until 11 - must finally come to an end. yet, when we bust into their room, there are the three of them, curled up like kittens, watching a DVD together - they've been up for hours, and didn't want us ruining their party. it is truly adorable. a breakfast of obscene amounts of breads, jams, cheeses, more lattés, yogurts, and other delectables ensues. we've decided to take a night off - klaus cancels our 'fancy' dinner reservation, and we all insist on an easy evening of going to the movies and out for burgers.

kirstenbosch gardens await - a slice of botanical heaven this side of devil's peak - literally, a manicured haven with sweeping views and points of repose. quite spectacular; the kids walk the trail to skeleton gorge, we sit on a bench and admire the vistas, and we all laugh at marlee's incessant insanity as she babbles on crazily - hysterical. after hours in this magnificent setting the weather has totally cleared - not a cloud in sight, bluer-than-blue sky prevails, and we are on our way.

it's back to uber cool kloof street - and a parking spot in front of manna epicure, where we order EVERYTHING on the menu - it's 4 in the afternoon, a late lunch needs to carry us until after the movie. the waitress tries to contain her horror, to no avail, and we enjoy every tasty morsel sitting on the terrace in the summer sun.

is there time for the beach? of course! andi has some sand work he wants to get to ... jared and marlee decide to hang back at the pool, enjoying beverages, ipods, and books pool side, while jane and i and andi get in a few hours at the stunning camps bay. we relax on the sand, go for a long walk, build sand letters, play paddle ball, and are amazed at the scenery. and the parking ... $1.30 in the lot directly across the corniche.

we scurry back to the hotel, time for another 'sundowner' and some snacks, and head out to the oddly named labia theater on orange street (not more than two minutes from where we're staying) ... it's a vestige of older times, with it's cool neon sign beckoning. we see the adorable 'happy go lucky' with sally hawkins, none of us really understanding the fast paced british dialogue, which only adds to the charm! we head out to royale eatery for the best burgers ever (lamb! ostrich!); cape town closes early so there's no gelato or espresso, but of course, it's midnight and time to turn in. friday is the last 'full' day here, and we have a good program on ...

more to follow!

lands-CAPE

2009-02-18T12:20:00.011-05:00

at our new friends! thanks debbie, michelle, and michelle - incredible!

o glorious day!

cape town continues to amaze. barely bigger than ottawa, it's so incredibly easy to navigate - even jane is driving with the steering wheel on the left, on the 'wrong side'. it has yet to take us more than five minutes to get anywhere, and traffic is non-existent. which means that world class dining, beaches, and shops are within easy range, and we can pack a ton into a day!

our day begins in de waterkaant district ... edna is right, it's fantastic! colorful and fun, full of life. we start at africa nova, with it's mod crafts interpretation of all things sub-saharan. really cool. we move onto café maxim - adorable and cupcake filled (has magnolia bakery really stretched it's long tentacles to south africa?). then, we are amazed by the french speaking team from martinique at lil'dreys de ci de la ... great kitsch kitchen bags (from amsterdam) and the most incredible chicken wire sculpture 'bust' of nelson mandela - design at it's best. we (i) are smitten with a crepe layered concoction with roasted squash and roquefort at le petit tart, our charming proprietor singing the praises of all those from new york (yeah!)...

we move onto just-off-kloof street. we are welcomed by michelle, our dear friend, at her-dear-friends lovely establishment, the hall collection. debbie has set up the most incredible cottage with imported italian linens, arranged with her incredibly keen eye for design. a modern, chic undertone permeates throughout; the goods are first rate, as is the arrangement of literally everything. towards the garden courtyard, we find a dressed table replete with the most gorgeous setting - an 'open wednesday' lunch awaits. cape town has their own ina garten; the barefoot contessa never had it this good. debbie regales us with stories and extravagances, buoyed by michelle's exuberance and enthusiasm. we sit down to a fine bottle of bubbly, a variety of salads, and towers of glass domes barely containing the most yummy confections, created by none other than debbie herself! we enjoy and incredible lunch in this divine setting, vowing to become lifelong friends and to forever recognize that the origin of humanity emanates from the transvaal, not far from our spot of repose and sophistication (wouldn't lucy be proud of our evolutionary triumphs!???). miranda has beaded us the most stunning bookmarks and we are thrilled to take them back with us as a further reminder of our time together!

finally, the sun emerges, just on time. the day has been rather mild, and we await our moment at the beach. here it is - a late afternoon drive to clifton 4, down a few steps, to sandy shores. we are all plugged into our i-phones and i-pods; the matkot paddles come out for rounds of paddleball, and jane does a brisk walk to camps bay for the summer-in-africa sunscreen. we laze about - i walk all the clifton beaches for my exercise, to work off my strictly vegetarian diet since i've been here.

at six we vow to go back 'home', instead driving to lundadno beach, and finally, hout bay. it's lovely out - at once appearing as if katrina will roll in, then other-worldly cloud formations break to reveal fantastic cliffs and rock formations.

finally home, wine flows, guests chat, and we prep for dinner at savoy cabbage. a lovely space welcomes us, but jared is not feeling great. so the evening is touch-and-go, he makes it through the spotty service, although the food is quite yummy. we laugh and laugh, feelings as if we've been her forever - so much fun, this very sophisticated, clean, and easy cape town.

what to do about going to our (real) home? we'll deal with that later in the week - for now, it's bedtime and another day of sun and fun awaits ...

h

a-freak-a

2009-02-17T18:12:00.014-05:00

marlee is STILL cartwheeling as evidenced below:

(add it to the collection = click here!)

the LEAST relaxing vacation EVER! despite gorgeous weather (38 degrees celsius, or 100 degrees fahrenheit), majestic scenery, incredible beaches, great food - i'm exhausted! too much fun! too much of a good thing!

firstly, cape town: spotless, organized, stunning. great graphics. nice people. hip but humble. thin (damn them!). easy to get around, despite driving with the steering wheel on the left. our small hotel, a living homage to beauty and modern style - wine flowing, solar heated pool, the incredible hospitality of klaus and chris at 2 inn 1 kensington. all is good. and the guests ... every night we congregate at 11:30 to regale ourselves with stories of table mountain absailing, paragliding, wineries, and secret beach coves. we were just admonished for our merry-making; every evening someone else emerges from their room, ready to break open gold-leaf dusted chocolate truffles, or champagne from one of the famous wine making regions. glass clinking, mad laughing - oh!

today, bright and sunny. jane and i insist on taking a walk down kloof street, right around the corner from our very smart hotel - a 'run' actually. well, the 'run' turns into a brisk stroll, and quickly descends into window shopping, checking out the menu at manna epicure, picking up treats at melissa's, and in a final act of desperation, sipping lattés curbside under an umbrella at vida e caffé. we're pathetic. when in insist we 'run' back to the hotel uphill, jane completely gives up, insisting she'd rather be out of shape and happy than in shape and sweaty.

it's already broiling by this time, and we rouse the kids at 10:30 - their personalized eggs, toast, juices, and lattés are waiting poolside. i tell them it's 7 am and that we're going to synagogue - they sing a chorus of protests, and finally realize that i'm joking and that the day is half gone. we decide to basically do nothing at all today; then suddenly find ourselves in the car, driving east to stellenbosch and franschoek (wine region towns, not unlike easthampton and southampton). it's the most spectacular scenery - tokara is glorious in all it's modernity (good wine tasting too!). stellenbosch is adorable - cupcake, the newest store, carries jane's kitsch kitchen handbags (from amsterdam); they have delicious little salads and quiches, and all manner of knick knacks ... great design! we pop into 'dot' next door for more amazing collectibles. again, we are super impressed with the beauty of western cape, the incredible hospitality of all, the quality of food/drink/design/graphics, and the lack of expense for this amazing experience. nothing is a hassle - not parking, not reservations, not weather, not accommodations - everything is first rate.

our only gripe? it does not seem to be 'african' - certainly not compared to rwanda. but that's okay - we feel happy, relaxed, well fed, and safe.

onto franschoek, the 'french' town in the winelands - picture perfect, with mountains growing in the background (think palm springs) and adorable eateries. we stop at ici, and find ourselves yet again imbibing wine and eating organic. oh, how much more can we stand!!!!!

blaring 'the five' radio and 'good hope fm' - inspiring on the radio...

we stop at the taal monument in paarl, and have the whole (poured concrete) place to ourselves - an incredible utopian paean to south african languages - brilliant and sort of fascist in it's incarnation - a great stop. we swiftly glide back into cape town - oh, there is our beloved table mountain and lion's head. home sweet home - time for another glass of wine and a quick call to the nassims and company in israel. poolside playing cards, snacking, staring into space. chatting with the other guests, with the incredible klaus; should we really go out for another gastronomic dinner tonight?

and suddenly, again, it's dark, and we're all dressed up, ready for an evening at ginja. at the last moment, i pull the bottle of bubbly out from the minibar - the one given to us upon our arrival from our new friends michelle and david - and we bring it to the restaurant for 'corkage' (they open it and pour it for you). jane, marlee, and i all sample it ... delicious! the food, well, incredible! inventive - appetizers on spoons, all manner of ostrich and springbok and fish. cheese platters, pear tarts, and chocolate landscapes. at the end of the meal, the waiter comes back - how did we ever manage to get a bottle of that champagne? whatever do you mean, we ask. it's rare, he tells us - almost impossible to come by, with a great pedigree (it's ambeloui, the hout bay bubbly available in tiny quantities only to those in the know). oh, dear friends, you've done it again!

finally home at all hours, we hook up with our compatriots poolside, for one last round, talks about garrison keeler, life, children.

another, yes another incredible down in western cape!

es-CAPE

2009-02-16T16:00:00.012-05:00

for a true clip of the insanity i am living with, please take a look at marlee:

omg.

i need a vacation from my vacation. when i planned a jaunt to south africa, i had visions of lolling about by the pool. palm fronds gently rustling in the breeze. long, leisurely breakfasts, and sundowners in the evening. a long bath. running on kloof street, or by the water's edge in sea point (i-phone secured to slowly growing bicep, blaring 70's music).

instead ... a frenzy of activity. weather consistently gorgeous and cloudless - 90 degrees with nary a bug in sight, no humidity. oh perfection, darn thou! so there is no rest for the weary. a brilliant breakfast organized poolside - me, with my greek yogurt and blossom honey, endless lattés; them, with eggs every which way, infinite amounts of toasted ciabatta, and a delectable and strange milk chocolate spread from bavaria. cheese like it's going out of style.

the kids have pilfered everything on our plates. i am not sure if i've gained or lost 10 pounds since arrival. it's pure hedonism. i do know i've had eleven kashi bars and forty eight glasses of wine. i cannot keep a piece of medium rare springbok on my plate. tonight (going backwards) we dine at jardine - incredible. only five items on the menu. andi (again) has a crispy south african fish. wine is flowing. jared and marlee both ingest springbok; my braised veal does not stand a chance (thank g-d andi is now a vegetarian). they eat my organic roll. i think i have a life saver in the car i can get too. they profess to not wanting dessert; when the cheese plate arrives, all manner of goat and cow are gone, as is quince paste and walnut sourdough wedges.

what DID we do this morning, between all this eating?!! oh yes, robben island, the prison where nelson mandela was held (amongst others). despite visiting as a tour group - the only way permissible - it is fascinating. an ex-prisoner guides us and gives us an intimate view of life during apartheid. amazing and fascinating. the power of human spirit and justice is inspiring, and we all feel both appalled and humbled by humanity.

we return, rather queasy from the boat road. today table mountain beckons - it is clear and stunning, and the cable car makes the 1100 meter ascent only under perfect conditions. we zip up to the lower end of this iconic rock formation, and find ourselves at the top of the rock quickly. the views are breathtaking, all the way to the cape of good hope. the beaches beckon from below. camps bay, glen beach, clifton1-4. there's devil's peak. the boys are terrified of falling off, but quickly turn to mountain goats. marlee is to be found at every ledge, not unlike wile e. coyote chasing the road runner. it is hot (90) but not really; it is the sun ... it is SEARING. broiling actually. we tuck into greek salad and health bars before descending, rushing like mad people back to our sanctuary to change for the beach and pick up our matkot paddles.

a black mercedes is in front of us, and there's henry waving frantically out of the back window - our friends = lifelong - who we had dinner with last night - just in front of us! so funny. we say hi, and promise to return in ten minutes to collect henry - he'll surf at the beach with us! we frantically change - we need to be back by seven for cocktails before heading out for dinner.

the beach is glorious - a combination of herzliya, rio de janeiro, and cannes. i go for a run. jane flops down. kids play paddle ball. henry is surfing.

this place is gorgeous! easy! laid back!

now, most places with incredibly in shape, good looking people and a spectacular coastline, great design scene, and natural beauty tend to be pretentious and self-conscious. not cape town. it's cool with a capital K, but not stuffy, or anti-pretentious (ie. low slung diesel jeans with converse sneakers). no, this place is all grown up and mature, and opens up it's arms to you, giving all it has to offer.

the 'mother city' of south africa. i get it.

h

i'm engaged!

2009-02-15T18:05:00.009-05:00

no, not that way.

you see, totally plugged in actually. in africa.

today, i feel connected. to africa (albeit, quite a different africa than i'm used to). rather, this new and familiar slash unfamiliar africa. the day starts with sparkling, crisp sunshine and heat. i take a run, blaring 'new york city girl' and 'ring my bell' on my iphone, securely strapped to my armband. i stride confidently down kloof street, the epicenter of cape town cool. did i mention that this city is TINY? it is, and loving it! manna epicure. melissa's. the hills and home cascading down table mountain? i return in a deep sweat to a magnificent café latté, courtesy of the team at 2 inn 1.

with minimal screaming, i rouse the kids and jane. sunny side up eggs abound, toasted ciabatta, more lattés, and we are finally off for the penguin colony at boulders' beach. andi, our budding vegetarian, is delighted with the sight on animals roaming freely, and we frolick with our normally-in-the-antarctic friends in the indian ocean. spectacular, although we all emerge sunburned. jane does not comprehend, despite our slathering of no. 30 ... as i insist, we ARE in africa in [their] summer, my dear.

we head further south - the incredible cape of good hope awaits. fierce winds blow as we head up to cape point, and make our way to the south western most tip of africa - wild and beautiful! we head north, stopping at olympia café (thanks debbie!) for treats. we scurry back to higgovale, our home away from home, and luxuriate in rain showers and don our lovely duds. we are expected at michelle and david's (and their six children's home) at 5:30 for cocktails and dinner.

it's sublime! incredible hosts, bearing gifts for all (a beautiful framed photo of us together at café gitane, chocolates for the kids) and are greeted by our new cape town friends and their fabulous six children. we drink, tour, discuss marc jacobs and trips to devi garh; we talk about wild fires on lions' head, and ladurée macarons. david mans the range, cooking all manner of gourmet food - michelle and i set the enormous dinner table, chatting about serendipity.

the kids are summoned for dinner - gnocchi, haricots verts, risotto, and incredible red wine. we laugh, discuss politics, breast cancer, and paris; the kids play play station and chat (facebook?). the evening draws to a close, sadly - we profess to be lifelong friends and meet imminently in india.

upon our return 'home', jane insists that we watch a dvd together - french, of course. i get sidetracked, drawn into political diatribe in the sitting area with guests from the uk. as if the seven glasses of wine have not been enough, i join them in an eighth - when one refers to a bottle of champagne in his room, we are goaded into another round, toasting obama and socialized medicine.

jane, fast asleep. pity. gelsie calls from new york - she's having twins! good news. i'm engaged in all manner of good things - vacation is so lovely, so warm, so challenging, so much fun.

tomorrow - robben island, where nelson mandela was in prison for years. amazing.

good neighbors make neighborgoods

2009-02-14T14:53:00.007-05:00

two things i have learned today in south africa:
1. in cape town, the general public starts serious consumption of alcohol at 10 in the morning (will explain) and do not complete said activity until late in the evening (punctuated by a more obsessive imbibing at 'sundowner' time)
2. sociologically speaking, cape town still seems divided - not on the surface, with all forms of humans co-mingling; no, this is slightly more insidious division which seems to take place in hip restaurants where an active social scene is taking place (also, will explain)

today - lovely! heavenly! after a great night of sleep, save for the 3 hours i stare blankly at the ceiling, trying not to wake jane (unsuccessful, forcing her to finally sport an eye-patch whilst i hesitantly watch cnn), we rise to a head-on view of lion's head (mountain) rising ceremoniously over the hills of cape town. breakfast is a lavish affair in the long dining room with the table that seems to continue on into the pool. the kids - omelettes, breads, jams, cheeses. jane and i on lighter grub, including yogurt, honey, smoked salmon, and many a latté (what else is new). it's spectacular but windy - the cable car up to towering table mountain is closed - and we make our way to the ever-hip neighbourgoods market in woodstock.

cape town is spotless! even an area described to us as 'slightly seedy' looks upmarket compared to new york! clean, neat, and tidy. we park at the old biscuit mill, and mill about with all manner of hipsters in low slung jeans and brad pitt hats. ciabatta breads abound, cute baby t's, dog designer duds ... all the usual suspects. we arrive to a large hall, brilliantly lit, and chock full of food vendors with pestos, french pastries, cheeses, tartlets - the most incredible picnic fare! while jane schemes to get sandwiches for a beach lunch, the kids and i turn the corner and - voila - there's a party going on! music, bottles of wine, young families, groups of friends - everyone is drinking, eating pizza with arugula and homemade buffalo mozzarella. would we like a glass of wine? why yes, funny you should ask. it IS 11 o'clock, isn't it?

two coupes of bubbly ... in real champagne glasses! 30 rand together, with a 20 rand deposit for the glasses (returned if we bring them back). we do, and together the twins of sparkling are $3 total. it is incredible value, this land of mandela! everything is value priced - beyond fair - making the holiday even more enjoyable. the movies are$2.50, dinner for 5 with four courses each, drinks, and a bottle of wine with a spectacular view is under $100. we're talking serious eating, amazing service, top location.

well fed between our opulent breakfast and our cool snacks, we head to the beach - incredible camps bay, as we snake between mountains and find ourselves staring down, way down to sugar beached lined with palms and swathed in aqua blue water. fantastic! we park across from the most gorgeous, promenade-lined beach - for $2 (sorry, can't resist) and spend the afternoon lolling about in the sand, playing paddle ball, staring at the mountains behind us and the sea in front. collecting seashells. snacking. heaven.

when we finally pull ourselves away, it's almost 5 o'clock - time for a quick smoothie and ride back to the hotel. more wine flows, our complimentary 'sundowners' and we quickly get ready for an early dinner at the ever-hip wafu on the water. everyone is in a 'valentines' mood - very amorous - and we stake a prime view of the ocean and ingest ridiculous amounts of sushi, dumplings, and edamame. even dessert, which we all profess to feel to full to enjoy. we've missed 'happy go lucky' at the classic theater, everyone is now (finally!) tired, so it's home sweet home to enjoy a dvd together. we're zonked, happy, and well taken care of!

tomorrow, penguins at boulders beach, or the cape of good hope. and more spectacular and welcoming south africa!

cape crusader

2009-02-14T03:13:00.008-05:00

in our desperate quest to leave no corner of the earth undiscovered, we prepare to board a delta flight for dakar, senegal - with a final destination of cape town, south africa. in the departure lounge are a few senegalese - some in long dress (men), others in three piece suits. one of these businessmen kindly ask a the man in the purple robe if he can borrow his prayer mat; successful, he kneels down on the ground and recites the afternoon ritual. on the plane: young couples toting a couple of babies and toddlers (going to visit family); africans (going home); older couples (going on safari).

we settle in on the plane, snagging extra seats and unleashing our paraphernalia - snacks, headphones, books. i am relegated to eating kashi bars for the duration of the nineteen hour flight, as the kids pilfer our meals. we are in dakar in no time, and none of us have really slept - it’s only 11 pm new york time when we touch down (early morning in senegal of course), and there is a crew change. i’m slightly panicked thinking that none of us will catch any winks between then and cape town, a nine hour flight away. but amazingly enough, they keep all of the shades down in the cabin, and we all sleep - and sleep - and sleep! it’s great knowing that we’ll be caught up by the time we arrive in south africa.

and what an arrival it is! after journeying over oceans endlessly, the western coast of africa emerges across the blue atlantic ... there’s paternoster, and west coast national park; robben island, where nelson mandela was imprisoned, comes into focus, followed by greenpoint and ‘the mother city’. we begin a descent, and are treated to an up close and personal view of the iconic table mountain and lion’s head, both towering over the city. it’s a magnificent afternoon as we land, make our way efficiently through the ultramodern airport, to pick up our mercedes upgrade.

this is the only part of our entire journey that makes me nervous - driving on the ‘wrong’ side of the road. particularly as jane and i both get into the car on the ‘wrong’ side - quickly realizing of course that i need to be on the right if i’m going to drive. the kids - hysterical and horrified -

but we roll along, easily in cape town, blaring ‘good hope’ radio and going against the outbound weekend traffic. magnificent! glorious sunshine, what a day! we’re all wide awake, and soon we’re parked in front of our home away from home, in the tony oranjezicht area of the city. incredible views of the surrounding mountain, and we are welcomed by klaus, the owner. our tiny carry-ons are whisked away, and we are ushered onto one of the many sun-soaked terraces, plied with crisp south african wine, tasty snacks, and fruit punch for the (delighted) kids!

we soak in the rays, the views; this ‘other’ africa so different than the rwanda i’ve grown to know, or from the souks of marrakech we visit a while back. no, this particular africa is all grown up - shimmery, modern, sleek, design oriented. klaus makes us feel at home, the rooms are huge and gorgeous and ultramodern ‘cool’ with all the mod cons. it’s amazing!

klaus tells us that our new friends, who live three doors up the road, have dropped by earlier with best wishes. when we are ushered to our room, we find flowers, champagne, and cookies. amazing! so sweet of them to welcome us this way. and how, pray tell, do we know them? we were seated next to this couple at our much beloved café gitane in nolita one sunday morning, struck up a conversation, and when we told them that we would be visiting their home town of cape town in a few months, they were delighted. and when they inquired as to where we’d be staying, they almost fell off their chairs - a lovely boutique hotel just three doors down from their own abode! coincidence or fate?

we hurriedly unpack, and realize that we can make an 8:30 dinner reservation at bizerca (downtown). run by a couple who have come to cape town, two young boys in tow, from australia, it’s another peon to design and haute cuisine. food is great, the kids lap it up, and even andi (our budding vegetarian) is wowed (by a piece of caramelized fish no less!). more wine, desserts, and coffee flowed, with a minimal tab, and off we went!

cape town has a nice vibe - laid back, relaxed - it’s all about the good life, the good weather, the good food. can’t wait to explore the rest in the morning!

dakar, dahling!

2009-02-09T22:49:00.005-05:00

it's time for the mini-suitcases to come out of their all-too-brief retirement. squirreled away under jared's ikea bedframe, they emerge no worse for the wear. bright hues or fuchsia, tangerine, lime, crimson, and blueberry ... we are (almost?) ready for takeoff! but first ... a run to blockbuster for dvd's on the nineteen hour flight (new york to dakar, senegal; then the longer leg to cape town, south africa).

hmmm. africa. never really thought about visiting, then suddenly ... the fourth trip. morocco in the north (so different than sub-saharan), then rwanda twice (inspiring), and currently a hedonistic retreat in the most south-westerly corner of the continent. it hasn't necessarily been a lack of interest; rather, we picture ourselves frolicking under the sails of the sydney opera house, or trudging through chiang mai; picking through design objects in copenhagen, or revisiting shibuya in central tokyo.

now that we are organized, the bags layered with fresh h&m t-shirts, the hyper cool restaurants in cape quarter, mouille point, and kloof street reserved, we all seem to be quite excited! the lovely iconographic and geographic scenery awaits; the cape of good hope (with the chilly atlantic on your right, the warmer shark-infested indian ocean on your left); and warm summer weather promises to envelop us as we sip our vintage 'sundowners' on the terrace, soaking it all in. yes, nothing wrong with a bit of un-reality in february!

we're not overly concerned about a nineteen hour flight; i-phones loaded with the partridge family and bob newhart; macbooks with belkin headphone splitters so the kids can watch their favorite dvd's; kashi bars, hershey kisses, peanut butter nips; m&m's; and twizzlers in tow ... we'll be fine.

more from abroad ... it's time for france 24~

debeers - a diamond is forever

2008-02-08T18:49:00.000-05:00

from today's new times:

----------------------------------------------------------
consumers of mutzig are going to have to start digging deeper into their pockets as factory prices of beer brands have significantly been increased, on average by frw100 (20 cents US).

rwanda breweries and soft drink manufacturer (bralirwa) says it has been forced to increase prices in part due to the soaring prices of raw materials, some of which are imported. a statement from bralirwa says prices of malt grain, the major ingredient for brewing beer, has increased significantly on the world market. however, by press time bralirwa could not disclose the current prices and volumes of the malt it imports. the company also says high costs of petrol and transport have increased thereby pushing up operating costs.

according to the statement, costs of other raw materials like sugar and hops – used primarily as a flavoring and stabilizing agent in beer – are also high. in addition, high prices for maize and other cereals in combination with limited supplies have contributed to the increase of beer prices.

however, prices of primus, heineken and soft drinks have not changed – something bralirwa says, ‘is for the affordability and accessibility for the rwandan consumers’.
----------------------------------------------------------
i object!

as you, my dear compatriots, are well aware, mutzig beer is at the top of my food pyramid when i am in rwanda! how could they? how dare they! now i have empathy for the current market conditions which are forcing the hand of bralirwa ... the crisis in kenya, high oil prices, etc. - but please don't touch my mutzig!

how elitist, by the way, that mutzig prices are going up, while it's sister brew, primus, remains unchanged. an interesting turn of events ... in kigali, primus is widely advertised as the ale of the people, and is in fact being distributed in smaller bottles to promote affordability (why do i know all this stuff? uggghhhhh!). so only us foreigners are affected.

and speaking of kenya, it is now confirmed that all imports coming into landlocked rwanda (including all of the supplies for the project i'm working on) will now have to flow through the port of dar-es-salaam in tanzania. incentives have been promised, tax breaks have been negotiated, and mombasa's port in kenya may never be the same if uganda and congo follow suit.

think i'll switch to wine ...

h

jia-da

2008-02-04T16:13:00.000-05:00

in light of recent events on the home front, our family will forego a planned trip to hong kong and tokyo next week - waahhhhh! alas, we must take care of things here, and we promise to reschedule - c'est la vie.

although quite frankly, i am a bit sad not to be occupying the penthouse suite we had booked at the jia hong kong. the first phillipe starck designed boutique hotel in this city of very chic and buttoned up bolt-holes, it is something of an anomaly in an otherwise business class city. not that hong kong doesn't have an edge - it does - but between reverting back to chinese rule and shifting economic sands (asian tigers lose their roar too), it seems as if it's trying to hold onto that corporate identity.

so, the seemingly lovely jia, in causeway bay - a bastion of slick finishes and oh-so-cool styling. yes, a bit of a cliché in this era of uber-designed hotels, but hey, i want my mtv. and hong kong - is a bit of nyc on the other side of the planet ... the obsession with money and conspicuous consumption, the hyper slick skyline, with a good dose of drama ... the haves and have-nots, the cheap eats and fine dining, the street life and markets, all under the umbrella of establishment.

it's been almost 20 years since the last visit, time to go back soon ...

congo line

2008-01-11T16:04:00.000-05:00

i ended my recent trip to rwanda with a visit to the border town of gisenyi, on beautiful lake kivu. a bit like being in lugano, this verdant region of western rwanda lies at the doorstep of the democratic republic of congo (drc), or simply, 'congo'. the town of gisenyi literally ends at the border post, and on the other side is the city of goma. currently at the center of conflict, it is a veritable hotbed of violence that has bubbled over like the nearby volcano that almost destroyed this town some years ago. not one to be easily frightened, this was one place that made me feel incredibly vulnerable, and for once, i had no desire to cross the border to get another stamp in my passport.

i was intrigued by a front page article in yesterday's new york times, which outlines the current civil war which continues to take shape in this place. more than the geopolitical discussion, i was intrigued by the differences in rwanda and congolese culture which is in part a point of the article. the following is an excerpt:

the fighting is also rekindling the kind of ethnic hatred that previously dragged this region into the most deadly conflict since world war II. it began with the rwandan genocide, in which hutu extremists killed 800,000 tutsi and moderate hutu in 1994. many of the genocide’s perpetrators fled into congo, igniting regional conflicts, lasted for nearly a decade and killed, by some estimates, as many as four million people through violence, disease and hunger.

the current battle is in many ways a throwback to the earliest and most difficult questions at the heart of the congo war, and also a reflection of longstanding hostilities toward tutsi, who are widely viewed here as being more rwandan than congolese, and as foreign interlopers with outsize economic and political influence.

in many ways, congo’s tutsi are a people apart, an unusual minority with influence but also problems beyond its size. these differences are reflected in a unique way of life. when the congolese army routed rebel forces in one of the strategic towns they occupied in a recent, ultimately failed push, the army celebrated with stiff pulls of rotgut whiskey. but when the rebels routed the army with a much smaller force a few days later, they toasted their victory with cups of milk from the most prized of tutsi possessions, dairy cows.

this reputation for sobriety and determination helps explain why tutsi have been so successful in business, according to tutsi community leaders in goma, the regional capital. “when we were investing and working, the congolese were listening to music and playing football,” said modeste makabuza ngoga, a tutsi who is one of goma’s richest men, with investments in transportation, telecommunications, tin ore and the gasoline trade, among other things. “are we to be blamed for that?”.

some of goma’s wealthy tutsi feel so unsafe that they sleep in gisenyi, a town just inside the rwandan border, a fact that reinforces the common perception that congolese tutsi are more rwandan than congolese.

rwanda’s history is a powerful touchstone for congo’s tutsi. similar disparities — a small group controlling considerable wealth and influence, amid a powerful sense of grievance from the majority — helped create the conditions that led to the genocide in rwanda in 1994. until the rwandan genocide, congolese hutu and tutsi coexisted relatively peacefully and in many ways faced the same kinds of persecution from other ethnic groups that considered them outsiders. but when the hutu perpetrators of the rwandan genocide flooded into congo, tensions rose between congolese hutu and tutsi as well.

joseph dunia ruyenzi, a human rights activist in goma, said that despite this history, tutsi must put their trust in the fledgling democracy of congo. “all congolese must see themselves as congolese first, and as having a stake in peace and prosperity,” he said. “our only option is to be in this together.”

goodbye hkg, hello mia

2008-01-03T18:15:00.000-05:00

for the first time in memory, we are cancelling a previously planned trip.

since we constantly feel as if we need to 'cram it in' with the kids - that is, travel with them while they still want to travel with us, it's painful! but jane is undergoing chemotherapy treatments through march, and that is mutually exclusive with touring during this time frame. so hong kong and tokyo will have to wait, which is a shame as we had great non-stop flights, amazing hotels, and superb restaurants booked for the splash out!

living in america, 'going' seems to be our highest priority ... not to rest, or relax, but to SEE. we feel compelled to expose the kids to new foods, foreign tongues, otherworldly vistas, and different cultures. the myopic view that characterizes their upbringing in this culture frightens us, and this is our way of counterbalancing that anxiety.

not to mention that we love to travel! and we do relax as a result of moving ... funky hotels, amazing languid meals, lots of coffee breaks, wine, and strolling through gardens. and more critically than all of this, we get family time together where we feel minimally glamorous - no dishpan hands, beds to make, groceries to shlepp, or work to attend to. we give it our all - looking smart and clean, rather polished actually!

so for our family to void a voyage is something new, unfamiliar, and most unwelcome! fear not, another booking lies just around the corner!

black clouds

2008-01-01T09:07:00.000-05:00

political and ethnic loyalties have long intertwined in kenya, and the violence that erupted after president mwai kibaki claimed re-election shows how volatile the mix can be. as in previous ballots, candidates campaigned using a mix of direct and indirect ethnic appeals. phrases like "it is our time to eat" were understood by voters who know that whoever controls the presidency has power to allocate money, jobs, and other benefits to his own group.

barely one week ago, i pass through nairobi on my way to bruxelles. fantasies of frolicking zebras, statuesque giraffes, and nightlife of mombassa dance like sugar-plum fairies in my head. yes, an impending election, scheduled for two days after my brief interlude, roots my fantasies, but that is just a passing thought.

here we are, one week on, and kenya has erupted in complete and utter violent chaos! oh me, oh my. feeling a bit like the kiss of death! hope my presence on this east african nation's soil didn't spark this civil unrest! i keep thinking that i was attempting to maneuver a day or two in the capital on my way back, at the serena with a visit to the national park - that would not have worked out so well, given the current circumstances!

tragic, really, that a country as prosperous and stable as kenya has descended into what will hopefully be a short-lived spree of killing and looting. having met many kenyans recently, i can attest that they are warm, cultured, and extremely civil - so the images flashing across the tv screen seem incongruous with my own developed experiences.

it is jarring and frightening, nonetheless, to see people wielding bloody machetes in the slummed streets of nairobi, and in other parts of the land. the root of most of this, beyond the alleged fraudulent election results, seems to be ethnic tension which manifests itself along political lines (what else is new?!). having spent a good deal of time in rwanda this year, which suffered horribly as a result of the genocide, and whose own violence was in good measure carried out with said machetes, i am personally horrified at any repetition of this brutality in africa (whatever the circumstances).

as a new year begins, my thoughts are with those who are, sadly, ringing in a new era under the pessimistic shadow of internal strife and violence.

h

missing mutzig

2007-12-29T09:00:00.001-05:00

it's been just a few days since my return, and it's taking me a bit of time to acclimatize to life outside of africa ...

just barely a week ago i was relishing my last 'day' in rwanda, sipping earthy beer by the pool and enjoying the african sky ... work completed, feeling satisfied!!!

jet lag, regular life, easing back into the routine - it's all good - but no mutzig here - wahhh!

home sweet home

2007-12-24T18:26:00.000-05:00

a long trip draws to a close ... and the same is true for a long evening.

upon landing in kenya, i chat with the woman sitting behind me on the plane ... very sweet and interesting! i call jane, text jc (*code name), and continue on my merry way. 8 hours later i awake to find that we are landing in bruxelles - a good night sleep has been had! i have breakfast with my new 'swedish' friend, which is a complete treat! i am delighted to find out that for the final leg of the journey, i have been upgraded to first class, which will take the edge off the eight hour flight home from europe.

i chat with dear debbie from bruxelles, feeling sorry that i didn't get to see her and her gang this weekend. alas, nice to speak nonetheless, and after purchasing boxes of chocolates for my crew, i take off in style! fully reclined, drinking champagne, watching tv, i zoom back to new york fairly rested ... it's a gorgeous day, i'm off the plane and through customs instantly; no checked luggage allows me to get into the waiting limousine straight away.

back in woodbury, i get a warm greeting from waiting children who promptly ignore me shortly thereafter - jane arrives, insisting i stay awake despite the time difference; my parents are here too, looking great and enjoying the kids.

another inspiring journey for which i am thankful, but it certainly is great to be back ...

best,

the long haul

2007-12-23T00:06:00.000-05:00

in congo, one way to success is to invest in toothpaste. if one can somehow finance the investment - that is, the purchase of 12 tubes of crest or colgate, there is money to be made. the young entrepeneur takes said cleansing agent, and offers it for pennies (everything in congo is in dollars) to eager buyers, who extend their toothbrushes for the daily dose that they have just paid for ...

in nigeria, it is possible to get rich off corruption - businessmen in cahoots with crooked government officials scheme to siphon off oil from corporate pipelines. by sending out a flotila of 'fishing boats' manned with skilled divers, one can tap into exxon and mobil's oil flow in smallish quantities, then send the stolen slick into offshore waters, where chinese tankers wait thirstily for the goods.

just about to take off for kenya, finally!!! hoping i make my connection in bruxelles tomorrow, que sera sera!

today turns out to be quite pleasant! a good workout in the gym (inexplicably, every fitness center in rwanda is incredibly well equipped!), a light breakfast, and lounging like a lizard at the pool (yes manda, wearing sunscreen this time!) - no attempt whatsoever to immerse myself in african culture. today, i am an expat!

just to reassure you, people ARE people. some observations from today on rwandans:
*they put ‘floaties’ on their kids when they go into the pool (although how they learn to swim in a landlocked country is beyond me!
*they put up fancy tents here too for weddings (one happening today at my hotel)
*they laugh at the same things westerners do, and boy, do they LOVE to laugh!
*they are diligent and deliberate - in all manners
*they are incredibly clean and proud - spotless dishes, floors, bathrooms, etc. - restaurants too!
*they LOVE clothing - and are fast forward stylish - low slung jeans, pointy shoes, crisp shirts, gold and silver handbags
*the husbands bring cash down to their wives who are sitting by the pools
*the dads are the ones swimming with the kids and ‘teaching’ them
*they have incredible table manners, and they eat their vegetables!
*they can switch back between french, kinyarwanda, english, and swahili with the greatest of ease!
*they are very relaxed - no shrieking parents, hushed tones, and the kids are extremely well behaved
*they are shocked when i relate that i have been married 19 years (to the same woman!) - generally, both men and women finish higher education, work for a few years, and get married in their low to mid ‘30’s
*they enjoy a broad range of ethnic foods in kigali, from great italian, to chinese, to indian!
*they work to live, and don’t live to work
*they mind their own business while still engaging with others
*they are happy that famous westerners are visiting rwanda - ben affleck, jenna bush, bill gates
*they believe (rightly so) that they are an ‘isle’ of civilization and are incredibly unique, compared to their neighbors
*they don’t understand how the genocide happened, and they are not so sure it couldn’t happen again - yikes!
*they have extremely clean nails and hands
*they wear sporty adidas and nike outfits to work out
*they love dancing
*they love ping pong
*they love american music (a foil to native senegalese and congolese music which is popular in other african countries)
*they are fond of their internet access
*the like tall lattés! starbucks, here we come!
*they eat fresh, not frozen
*they despise government corruption, which is NOT endemic in this land
*they don't smoke and they rarely drink

an interesting, if too-long adventure comes to an end - ready for home!!!

amour d’afrique,

h

how green is my valley

2007-12-22T12:13:00.001-05:00

thinking that today i would be leaving for nairobi and bruxelles, i relish my last day in africa ... a leisurely breakfast on the terrace overlooking the lake! a long chat with oscar and alain about the political situation in neighboring congo, the internal situation here in rwanda, and the purpose of the UN forces (peacekeeping, but what peace ARE they keeping?). oscar, the manager, explains how being raised in congo means receiving a single cow eight days after birth - this animal ‘brings’ others during it’s lifetime, resulting in a much larger herd which serves as a ‘bank account’. when one travels, they sell a cow to finance the trip. for university, a couple of cows are sacrificed for the good of higher education. sure beats a trust fund!

at the guest house where we stay, there must be twenty people servicing the four large apartments. workers come and go, bringing coffee, wiping terraces, opening gates - quite a contrast to the skeletal staff at any hampton inn, where a sole individual seems to man the night shift!

we begin the drive back to kigali, as i need to review some drawings at the architecture office prior to taking off. the countryside continues to astound me - it is green, lush, and terraces, and truly looks like hawai’i. it’s a gorgeous day and a glorious drive - many people walking along the side of the road, women balancing baskets, sugar cane, and twigs on their heads with nary a hand to help them. the men, on the other hand, stroll along at their own pace, chatting or riding their bikes (whose ownership gives them elevated social status). as we zip through small villages, we see large clumps of people hanging out, standing still, just not moving.

we make it back to kigali mid-afternoon, and when we arrive at the offices, we are joined by fred, the contractor for our project. he queries about my schedule, and asks if i’m flying SN tonight ... my affirmative response is rebuffed - the flight has been canceled i’m told. no!!!

unfortunately, my dear friend speaks the truth ... the plane is not coming from bruxelles, and alain helps me scramble over to the town office of the airline. they rebook my on an improvised flight for tomorrow evening, much to my chagrin, and refuse to put me up for the night at the serena. they propose the milles collines (the hotel of ‘hotel rwanda’ fame) ... the carpets in the rooms have not been cleaned since the genocide, so i pass and opt for the also-offered novotel.

i will now miss seeing my close friends in belgium, will be forced to spend an extra nonproductive day in kigali, and will have to run to make my connection on monday to get back to new york in time to bake marlee’s birthday cake (the big day is tuesday!). not to mention i will be traveling straight from kigali to nairobi to bruxelles to new york - 22 hours!

time for a quick bite and a whole lot of mutzig!!!

h

go jump in the lake

2007-12-21T15:47:00.000-05:00

today i am treated to a mini-break. i leave my home for the past week, the serena (and how serene it is!) to travel east with my friend alain to gisenyi - a 'resort' town on the shores of lake kivu, directly on the border with the scariest and most tense part of congo.

we weave through the countryside which links kigali to this part of the interior - and pass through more of the terraced, steep hills which define this land. the colors are vivid and eye popping, as are the throngs of people in each town - it is market day today. alain and i discuss the genocide, which seems more incredible and incomprehensible the more we talk. why did it happen? how could it happen? could it happen again?!

we arrive to lake kivu, which looks like an african version of lugano, switzerland. it is a huge lake with high hills around it, and a lovely if somewhat neglected corniche. we make our way past the villas, ending up literally at the congo border - it is wierd and frightening to think of what is happening on the other side of the post. we turn around, and find kiki's apart-hotel a few steps away - it is a newly constructed property, and we have been offered a three-bedroom, four bath apartment overlooking the water. it's lovely, with all of the finest accoutrements, and we relax on the terrace before heading out for a lunch along the shore. we dine on tilapia and mutzig, and pass a relaxing afternoon staring at the water.

we return to the rooms, and i actually nap while alain visits family. i enjoy a bit of television from congo - basically, a series of long commercials, which really are a gas. in the most memorable, a band of three young men burst into song - reggae married to hip-hop, and go around to various 'fictional' characters in distress, singing about their products and offering hope. it is hysterical, particularly when the product placement finds the recipients of their benevolence grinning in thanks!

we hang out, read the paper, and listen to the extraordinarily loud christmas carols being sung by the children of the family occupying the apartment next to ours. mercifully, i am armed with xanax, ear plugs, and eye patches for sleep tonight! convoys of trucks from ngo's crossing into congo pass us - medecins sans frontieres and the like - to help with the throngs of people just over the border who are in distress.

later in the evening, we go the the serena in this town, the only other in rwanda owned by the south african hoteliers. the hotel is really spiffy, and we have dinner on the terrace, complete with music and dance enacted by a troop of intore performers. it's quite superb! suddenly, a huge rain looms and appears, replete with thunder and intense lightening crackling against the huge lake. we move indoors, and end up meeting the brother of eric, who works at the architecture office in kigali - we know this as they look and sound practically identical! moments later, we bump into the manager of bourbon coffee, at who's establishment we dined last night before sifa flew off to belgium. rwanda is a VERY small country!

tomorrow is my last day in africa before scurrying back to belgium to see debbie and dino and gang (if we can arrange it) or paris - not sure yet. it will be a long night tomorrow, so i'm off to bed to get some rest ...

shabbat shalom!

h

'allo, dear chap!

2007-12-20T15:25:00.001-05:00

from today's new times, kigali:

one evening, bayingana had his supper while watching the english news on rwandan television; little did he know that he was watching his beautiful sony for the last time. the next day, he was up at 6 am, and to his dismay a window-like hole had been created on his wall. he must have begged g-d to turn it into a dream but everything was real. "so, this is how i've been paid for the hard earned savings that enable me to get all these super machines", he thought. a hand must have been borrowed from an engineer because they had tools and expertise which helped them put his house wall apart. and that's the last time his living room heard of the screen, dvd player, and decoder.

the scenario taught bayingana something so true about a section of our police. my dear friend always heaped praise upon our police force; you would think these guys walk on water and have a direct line to g-d. they got his emergency call and the best help he parted was being told to take pictures of the scene as if every citizen of rwanda is meant to have a camera. this is ample negligence enough to let bin laden smoke at one of teh c.i.a. headquarters' balcony.

say, wah?

i am continuously struck at the formality of rwandans, and by conjecture, sub-saharan africa. there is a manner of speaking which belies the informality of any given situation - people are friendly and physically affectionate, and yet they converse rather oddly in this way. people are most often smiling broadly and warmly, and i assume that perhaps this idiosyncrasy is the result of a long period of colonization. it is evident in both the french speaking people who have 'come back' from congo (belgian) as well as in the english speaking residents who have returned from uganda or kenya (british).

at any rate, it is quite endearing and actually extremely pleasant to listen to - particularly coming from america where slang is de rigeur, and there is little or no emphasis placed on grammar or pronunciation.

my work is pretty much done here for now, so tomorrow i leave for a 36 hour mini-break, where i hope to recharge my batteries. last round of samosas and mutzig beer are enjoyed in my room while packing, and tomorrow brings my last breakfast on the terrace overlooking the garden ... goodbye summer, hello winter -

h

good times, ain't we lucky we got 'em!

2007-12-19T14:52:00.000-05:00

from today's new times article, 'how to increase sales this christmas':

now that christmas is underway, you need to get the best profits out of your business. end of year parties are thrown with bonuses for best performers as well as remunerations for other employees. so they seem to have just enough money to meet the exorbitant bills. one of the reasons as to why you are in business is basically to make profits; but how can one get profits this season amidst cutthroat competition?!

probably not the best choice of words, but i digress.

another long day in rwanda, where the sun goes down long before the work is ever done! fear not, we have made progress - yes hillary, it really DOES take a village!

amongst other things i do today, i have the opportunity to meet the minister of youth, sports, and culture - the political attaché for our project. we visit him at his office, at the football stadium, to get some papers signed. his administrative assistant, alice, is a bright and lovely young lady, who sports a fashionable bustier top over flared pantaloons and heels. her hair is braided back and astonishingly reemerges as a thelma evans' mystical pom pom bun (jj's sister on good times) - extremely flattering and stylish!

did you know:
1. many men in rwanda are named desiré?
2. the rwandan handshake comes at you like a left hook, grabbing you squarely and swiftly at the palm of your hand?
3. rwanda has more female parliamentarians than any other country in the world?
4. rwanda is the most densely populated country in africa? (i don't believe that one either!)
5. this country was colonized initially by the germans, and then by the belgians?
6. that dian fossey, the gorilla scientist, died here in 1985?
7. the vast majority of the people are either roman catholic or protestant?
8. the twa are a native pygmy people and were the first ethnic group to settle here?
9. the most distant source of the nile river is in southern rwanda?
10. it is currently summer here, as we are 2º south of the equator?
11. they play a muzak version of the song 'sweet life (it's the only life i know)' on a continuous loop tape 24 hours a day in the lobby of my hotel, thereby rendering all inhabitants temporarily insane?!

a quick update - we have almost concluded with design for the village - it is incredibly laborious, requiring hours and hours of intensive work, but we are actually getting there! we have nicknamed the major pedestrian path between the residential and scholastic zone the 'mustache' in honor of it's curvilinear shape which mimics my own recent facial hair. school, library, dining, visitors' area, homes for 500, landscape, and support - very broad indeed. we will conclude tomorrow, when part of the team will fly back to the u.s. and italy. i will stay through saturday, visiting the lakeside resort of gisenyi on the border with congo, before returning to europe.

hope you're all well, wishing you a great holiday season and happy travels if you're hitting the road ... hariko, whatever that means (heard it a lot today!) -

h

come fly with me

2007-12-18T15:12:00.000-05:00

from today's new times, editorial section:

if the kinyarwanda culture is legendary the world over for anything, it is for the intore dance, the one in which striking female dancers fully clad in traditional shawls, bare-chested men strapped across the chest and back, wearing ‘manes’ made from a special tree, doing flying bird-like movements, blissfully, and perhaps appropriately referred to as the traditional ballet.

women and men of all shapes and sizes, heights and classes suddenly move their bodies in a fluid-like pattern that has no particular consistency except for the amazing rhythmic correlation.

you will think all rwandese have been bred and trained in the art of performing this dance from childhood.

i was pleasantly surprised to learn that the outstretched arms and the extended skirts simulate the shape of the long curved horns of ‘ankole’ cattle and the flapping of elephant ears (from a new york times article of all places).

rwandans love their cattle, and for a man to tell the woman he fancies that she resembles a cow ''is very, very nice,'' says one leonia uwimana. in fact, when you curiously observe the men’s hands movement, they actually take from the movements of the cattle’s front limbs, doing a slow walk before turning awkwardly but beautifully in a different direction just like a bull that has suddenly been jerked away from its peaceful munching of juicy green pasture.

it will then gallop away, the pairs of hind and front legs leaving or landing on the ground concurrently.

this morning i had a funny encounter on my way to an eleven hour day at the office of the architects, here in kigali. as i was getting picked up at the lobby, i waited patiently for my lift. one of the two doormen (my friends!) side stepped up to me and whispered something to me. i didn't quite get him and told him so in french; he tried again in english, and again i was stumped by his low tone and (cultured east african) accent. finally, rather sheepishly but firmly, he pleaded: 'sir, you have left your fly unzipped!'. i flushed red and actually laughed hysterically, it was so ridiculously funny! a great way to start the day.

it is an interesting thing, volunteering one's time towards an altruistic effort in east africa. firstly, you quickly realize you are not alone. there are literally tons of people, agencies, and organizations working on the ground in rwanda. remember, the genocide here happened almost fourteen years ago. and although, as a westerner, it's easy to dismiss this and other 'developing' countries as impoverished, it's not quite a fully accurate account. it is true that this country has experienced incredible turmoil since that time - many survivors did leave, and other 'rwandans' by lineage came 'back' for the first time, making a new life in their recently liberated homeland.

but being here one is struck by the fact that as a westerner, you can move about freely and on your own, with security and safety - even at night. this is in stark contrast to the events that define rwanda today of course.

so now the west lends a helping hand, perhaps in part as a way of atoning for mistakes of the past. and although i may feel as if i am the only one coming to this part of the world, doing what i'm doing, i'm in fact not special or unique at all in this regard. there are so many people doing the same thing, it is incredible. building orphanages, schools, medical clinics. and you wonder about all of this - are they selfless? do they have an agenda? are they opportunistic? or are they here to inspire, to lead, to redefine 'success'.

it's all very humbling indeed, and at the same time very enriching on a personal level. perhaps i am 'getting back' more than i'm giving ...

h

18,000 trees

2007-12-17T14:37:00.000-05:00

from the new times sport section today:

saturday results: burundi 0-0 tanzania; ethiopia 0-0 sudan

tanzania's kilmanjaro stars are up for a busy task as they face sudan in the quarter finals of the cecafa senior challenge cup at the national stadium dar es salaam, tanzania. a slim 10-1 win over somalia on wednesday as well as a goalless draw against burundi on saturday provoked local fans here to lose hope.

sudan didn't perform as expected as it earned its points from draws against ethiopia and zanzibar. ethiopia had lost it fixtures against zanzibar 2-3 on thursday, following djibouti and somalia in the exit chamber. eritrea is the only surviving team from the horn of africa.

hmmm ... wonder why sudan is so distracted these days?

once again, i am unable to sleep at a normal hour - ugghhh! despite feeling zonked, i work out in the wee hours of the morning, and enjoy an early sumptuous breakfast on the terrace in the hot african sun. my roasted tomatoes with cheese are back - oh, the simple joys of life. piping hot rwandan coffee sends me on my way!

we go to the site today - finally - after rendezvous-ing with the team at the contractor's office to review and approve samples. once again, we seem to be only talking about toilets and the price of cement (how many times can i hear that it's going up - i have my own problems!) ... but it is all very convivial and helpful, and our convoy speeds away. we wind through the hills - the countryside is spectacular, as the 'light' rainy season has just ended, and everything is green(er) than july. we weave through magnificent vistas, looking down into deep valleys - like driving in vermont, but with bananas (everywhere!) and statuesque african women in their multi colored print dresses.

we arrive to the huge construction zone, the future home of the agahozo shalom youth village - incredible. what was once just two large hills separated by a valley with views to burundi is now taking shape as a real, habitable place! there are 350 workers on site - making foundations, laying masonry, making blocks on site - it's amazing. there are workers quarters, a canteen, an office, and people everywhere. suddenly, homes for 524 orphans are rising!

we tour the site, making decisions whilst deciding what it is that is still undecided - basically, planning out our work for the next few days. there are lots of things to address, and we move in a pack, driving the entire site first, then walking to the key locations - the central plaza, the school, the library ... amazing!

it is 80º and sunny, a spectacular day, and we look beyond to the terraced fields that lie beyond. suddenly, the mayor and governor arrive, and we all mobilize to greet them! they hold the key to making the village's realization 'smooth', and have popped by just to say hello. the governor, a genial man with all the accoutrements - pierre carden shirt, prada glasses, latest mobile phone, etc. has us all sit at a makeshift conference table in the construction office. he has come to let us know that the prefect is donating 18,000 trees to the effort, including the actual planting of the species (mango, eucalyptus, etc.) - amazing!

this is an incredible thing, particularly since the site feels denuded by the work going on. and not only is this a politically positive development, it is also layered with meaning ... the number 18 - chai in hebrew, which means life - perfectly suited to a village housing children who survived the genocide here. the gift of trees - green both in color and earthly attitude - giving life and oxygen. upward growth - the children - and sustainability for this fractured country. we are delighted!

but there's still lots to be done, so we head back to kigali in the mid-afternoon, for a meeting and a bite. i'm totally exhausted - from lack of sleep! additionally, i discover that i am incredibly sunburned, not having thought of the need for sunscreen before i left this morning - duhh. hot equatorial sun on in open area - feeling better though.

after the pow-wow, i hop into town, and snake my way through the market - it's dusk and gorgeous! no one smokes here, and they're constantly sweeping the streets, so it is not overwhelming in that sense. everyone is out and it's hopping - and is everything that you would think of, if you were to think of a sub-saharan bazaar. incredible, and i score a pair of funky rwandan boots - the standard issue item here - for a great price!

back at the serena, i grab a quick bite, a mutzig draft beer, and it's time for zzzzzzz's - good night all!

h

you wand'a new suit?

2007-12-16T14:25:00.000-05:00

from an article in today's new times titled 'men equally should replenish wardbrobes':

tweed is a very heavy wool fabric. today, tweed suits are popular in rwanda, because of a permanent chill in the air (did i miss something?). the average wearer of tweed (again, did i miss something?) is more mature if you get the meaning. stay away from tweed, especially if you are packing a few extra pounds (or packing heat). tweed is not a larger man's friend.

okay, you look at linen and you think of hanging out at the beach (rwanda is landlocked) or clubbing. and you probably enjoy that leisurely walk with your pants rolled up a touch. stop dreaming! as a fabric goes, linen wrinkles quickly, stains, and doesn't wear well. it is not acceptable for a suit, unless you really are one of the lucky few that actually do live on a beach in a tropical place like mombasa.

just being here is a trip!

oh, to be back, roaming the streets of kigali. the slight smell of charcoal in the air, the milles collines (thousand hills), the gentle people (except for those watching the manchester united/liverpool football match - oh, the screaming!) ... all a sight for sore eyes!

a bright sunny day and breakfast with my colleague sifa - she disdains all offers of food, whilst i eat for two - rwandan cheeses, fresh baked scones, whole yogurt, honey from 'upcountry', and delicious local roast french press coffee - a great way to start the day! we head off with alain on this glorious morning, thinking that this is a whole lot better than the wintry weather of the northeast ... birds chirping, 78º and sunny!

we loop around kigali, through the minority muslim quarter, along a road built by qaddafi, to the bourgeois neighborhood with it's own mcmansions, and onto a residential area filled with bougainvillea and villas peaking through stone walls. very civilized. we enjoy a lunch on the terrace of soleluna, an italian eatery with a large, wood burning oven that turns out the most tasty thin crust pizzas ... divine!

back to the kigali international airport to pick up manlio, our jdc associate, who is flying in from addis ababa, ethiopia to participate in this week's efforts. we bump into kiki, le grand patron of the architecture firm here - fetching a friend in for his sister's wedding - and stumble upon p-diddy lookalike (his driver, who almost plunged us off of a number of hillsides during my last visit, careening around corners at hundreds of kilometers per hour - yikes!).

we collect manlio (roman), no worse for the wear, a long flight with a stop in entebbe (en-ticing!). we arrive back at the hotel mid-afternoon, and quickly convene on the terrace for tea and talks. we are joined thereafter by erik, our newest addition, an expat from bruxelles who will assist with technical details. so at the table we are canadian, american, italian, belgian, rwandan - our own UN.

we finish up in anticipation of tomorrow's long day - visiting the site for the project in rwamagana with the entire extended construction team - should be exciting (especially as i'm not driving with the aforementioned p-diddy). can't wait to see the progress! manlio and i have a bite of dinner later on, swapping travel stories and anecdotes about our sephardic wives (his is egyptian), and i stumble upstairs ... almost bedtime, hoping i can get to sleep before 2 am tonight (a goal which has eluded me to date on this journey!).

i will be wearing neither tweed or linen tomorrow!

welcome back, kotter

2007-12-15T18:10:00.000-05:00

warden message
kigali, rwanda
14 december 2007

the u.s. embassy hereby informs american citizens in rwanda that all non-essential travel to the province of north kivu, democratic republic of congo (drc) should be deferred until further notice.

according to media reports, as well as information provided by the UN mission in congo (MONUC) and the u.s. embassy representative in goma, the armed forces of the democratic republic of the congo (FARDC) stepped up military action against general laurent nkunda and his forces, using helicopter gunships and heavy artillery in the area of mushake on 04 december. nkunda loyalists are moving from kabati and kilolirwe towards kichanda and further north. movements of forces on both sides, build-up of government troops, and continued clashes are expected. numerous civilians are fleeing the region.

american citizens in rwanda who are considering traveling into the DRC are advised to closely monitor local and international news from reliable sources for updated reports. radio okapi broadcasts in french on 103.5 fm at 0700, 0800, 1200 and 1800 as well as flash broadcasts throughout the day. english language news can be found on BBC at 92.6 FM.

additionally, american citizens are urged to review and update their personal and professional emergency plans, and take necessary precautions to avoid being caught in dangerous situations.

i guess we're not in brooklyn anymore!

taken from the lovely and non-threatening email i receive late last evening in belgium, regarding the area in western rwanda where i will be spending next weekend before returning home. how nice! how relaxing! how will i make it back in one piece!

i am back in kigali, rwanda - feeling like i never left!

i’m up early in bruxelles, quickly enjoying a yummy european breakfast (cheese!!!). i am the only one in the gym, go figure, as it is pitch black outside (7 am, but in reality it is still dark at 8:30 in the morning!). as i’m traveling light, i quickly shower and presto, change-o, i’m packed up and checked out.

i cross the footpath to the airport, say a quick hi to debbie via phone, and i’m set to go ... brussels airlines flight to nairobi, which drops me in kigali on the way (thanks!). despite my vehement protests, my tiny carry-on bag is wrestled from my arms - too heavy i’m told, at a whopping 13 kilograms (they only allow 10 kg per passenger in the cabin during the holiday season, for fear of the probable overloading which would otherwise occur!). so now i am really traveling light ...

a flyover of strange proportions ... belgium, luxembourg, france, germany, switzerland (snow-capped alps, not even looking real!), italy, and out over the azul mediterranean ...

we cross into africa, not at egypt (as in the summer) but rather directly over tripoli, libya. a bit further south and we’re over the sahara, perfectly clear with sand dunes and all - gorgeous afternoon light, no roads or signs of civilization visible below. we fly onto chad, a bit further west of darfur, over a giant meteoric crater, and huge red outcrops appear - then they’re gone, and so are we ... central african republic (did you know this country existed?), through democratic republic of congo (see above!) and into rwanda ... home.

it's great to be back ... alain and sifa are there with big smiles to greet me, and we immediately fall back into familiar ways, laughing, talking about african politics, ngo's, the united nations, etc.. i blink and we're at the serena, kigali's fancy hotel, where as it turns out there is the big celebration of kiki's sister's wedding (kiki is the lead architect in rwanda responsible for our project).

i check in quickly, have a brief chat with jane, who is having 'tea with the girls', and scurry downstairs for a big draft beer, lamb and vegetarian samosas, and some lively banter with sifa on the terrace by the pool.

upstairs in my familiar surroundings, i unpack and prepare for tomorrow - it's late, well past midnight, time to turn in ...

as they say, kisses from kigali!

h

bonjour from bruxelles!

2007-12-14T23:50:00.000-05:00

despite yesterday’s dire warnings of the hail, sleet, and snow (‘the sky is falling’) i make my way to europe. a day of controlled chaos - marlee with a fever home from school, no bags packed, on and off impending ice storms - and then the car service arrives at the house. a gigantic stretch limo at that, putting fifteen feet between me and the driver! we make it to jfk in somewhat record time, i check in at the near empty medallion lounge and pass through this elite security area unscathed, leaving me hours and hours to call at the delta crowne room (wine, wine, and more wine!).

a two hour delay and half a xanax later, we are airborne - i am blocked with eye shades and ear plugs, and resolutely occupy three seats, turning them into my own flat bed (eat your heart out, emirates!). so all in all, i manage to eek out a good night of sleep - landing in belgium one hour behind schedule. off i stroll, with trusty carry-on bag, checking in for tomorrow’s kigali flight rather quickly.

the hotel is in the airport, another quick lift up to my soundproofed room, a super hot shower, and i am on my way to antwerp to meet debbie’s sister karen. we find each other in this super hip port city - very funky - and head to the ‘bourse’ - the diamond exchange. there are more lubavitch jews here than at the lower east side! on bikes, walking, with kids - moving furtively about! we pass through security at the diamond center, and karen (keke) seems to know everyone! so funny, this shtetl! she takes me to the old-fashioned ‘jewish’ restaurant there, where the merchants have lunch, as a kick (think katz’s deli) ... it’s great - soup with knedlach, lox, egg salads, beets - all served up in that post ‘50’s glam that we associate with this type of eatery.

then we do the grand tour - the huge new yohji yamamoto shop, dries van noten, ann demeulemeester, and see fabulous home design shops, bookstores, and other modern purveyors of goods (chocolate!). we stop for a mid-afternoon drink, do some more shopping, and head back to her and phillipe’s home to meet their three gorgeous and sweet kids ...

debbie’s father comes to collect me and brings me to the lieber residence - a pearl of contemporary architecture with clean lines, glass, gardens, impeccable furniture, and other ‘moments’ which exhibit their exquisite taste and passion for quality design. this is the forum for a wonderful shabbat dinner, prepared by debbie’s mother, as debbie and dino and the kids arrive from bruxelles, along with debbie's brother and his family - all so warm, welcoming, and interesting! it is easy to understand how debbie is, knowing that she comes from such stock.

a truly special and unique night at home with the family lessens the distance to my own crew, back in new york - missing them but comforted by this evening’s festivities! we make our way back to bruxelles after a short car ride, and i bid farewell to my dear belgian friends ...

tomorrow, rwanda!

pack it in, baby!

2007-11-15T16:28:00.000-05:00

in the ever increasingly complex world of global air travel, we have found at least one solution to the plethora of problems that confound adventurers.

packing.

or, lack thereof.

long before the era of 3 ounce containers was ushered we, our family humbly submitted to venturing forth with carry-ons only. it was a perfect storm of sorts. firstly, we were going to india for spring break; two adults and three children on eight flights in ten days. how to schlepp all that was needed?

luckily, on one of my many jaunts to target, i passed the small-ish luggage zone. five colorful carry-on pieces, in astonishingly vivid colors, presented themselves to me. the perfect size, and the more-than-perfect price of 9.99 USD each.

"how will we fit everything in", child a decried. "there's no room for my stuff", joined in child b. child c sat there mortified, joined by wife who was at once astonished by my brazen audacity to even suggest the scheme and was concurrently equally fascinated by the idea.

could five jews from suburban new york really pull it off? yes, we could, we did, and we have been doing so ever since that fateful trip. we are a curious crew, swiftly moving into position when we embark - overhead bins open, we scale seats to jam these tiny packages into the dark recesses. we get the dirty looks, even though we barely take up any space and certainly don't encroach on anyone else's square footage (jealousy rears it's ugly head). yep, we've got the system beat.

we are often found passing through cdg, where all of the security workers know us as we stroll through with our bags - we're hard to miss. fuchsia, lime green, tangerine, scarlet, and deep blue - that's us. we even picked up sardonic luggage tags to match both the color and the message.

we don't do laundry. we don't iron. we don't shop. we only bring one pair of shoes. here's the rest of the recipe for a ten day voyage:

1 pair black pants (twill) or long black peasant skirt, for evening
3 dark polyester hipster tops, for evening
1 pair black shoes: mens (rubber souled shiny target loafer or high top all black leather sneakers) & womens (target wedge boots or steve madden platforms) - for day and night
1 jet-black zippered hoodie, tight fitting (like a pullover sweater)
2 pair of jeans
10 pair underwear, 10 socks
10 daytime t-shirts
1 black belt
2 bathing suits (weather permitting)
1 pair rubber flip-flops
1 mini umbrella
cosmetics: 1 small rollon anti-perspirant, 1 tube moisturizer, minimal makeup, nail file, clipper, 1 tube mini-toothpaste, 1 toothbrush, 1 comb, hair elastics, 1 tiny tube sunscreen if needed (no cologne, perfume, nail polish, blush, etc.! - and no cheating!)

yes, it fits. we've done this numerous times - the girls wear their hair curly, we clean the shoes at night before dinner (get the dust off with a handcloth and water), and i can promise you we've gone from day to night with nary a problem. we've dined at guy savoy in paris, all outfitted in black, looking quite chic just off the plane from mumbai. you're all in it together.

and the best part - no waiting for your bags, no time wasted unpacking, no problems fitting your luggage in a rental car or taxi, no mess in the room, and no decisions (read: arguments) about what to wear.

voila!

try it, you'll like it!

h

devi garh

2007-11-13T18:15:00.000-05:00

there is a perfect place on the indian subcontinent. a mere 45 minutes (blessedly) outside of udaipur stands devi garh, proudly rising betwixt the aravali hills.

towering over the adjacent farmland and the village of delwara, a jain temple town if there ever was one, this palace, yes, palace, is gloriously bathed in the deep light which makes this corner of rajasthan famous. firstly, it is important to know that walking, strolling, or browsing in indian cities does not afford serendipity; rather, it provides one with an up close and personal look at the nostrils of a giant cow, mega car fumes, and an ear splitting cacophony of horns and other assorted noises. forget sidewalks. relinquish your fantasies of teahouses and cafés. and abandon those notions of carting bolts of indian silks home to cover your walls, pillow, or other bourgeois articles that may grace your own palace.

all the more reason to head for the hills! ahhh, devi garh. a spectacular edifice, a remnant of the mogul empire, now waiting for you and only you. with twenty nine suites, it seems absurd that ALL of this could be for you. but it IS! and from the impeccable grounds, to the stunning views marrying the complex to the landscape, village, and farmland beyond, it is a rhapsody of incredible indian design. ingenuity is unveiled at every turn ... the lovely pool, the cool dining room, the sunset terrace, the contemporary inner courtyards all subtly beckon even the most jaded of travelers.

we were fortunate to share our journey with friends from london and paris - the experience did so touch us all ... even though we were introduced at this retreat, we founded transatlantic friendships which have endured. we were giddy with the thought of our good fortune, and none of us wanted to leave - ever.

the food - well, scrumptious (on our last evening, i was ceremoniously presented with the recipe for my favorite dessert, neatly typed on letterhead for me to experiment with at home upon my sad return to normal life!). the rooms - beyond stunning. the views, well we've covered that. how about the kids? our three terrors clamored between the piscine, the game room, and flying kites on the rooftops with the gracious staff in their flowing outfits. paired with our outings to the local temples, we had a great dose of all that this magical land can and should be.

devi garh, highly recommended to all!

h

hello, senator!

2007-11-12T10:16:00.000-05:00

when i was growing up, i thought that my hometown of ottawa was exceedingly boring. looking like something out of the arctic tundra in winter, it's frozen landscape held little appeal for me. i dreamed of the partridge family bus rolling by, seeing me singing 'i think i love you' in the living room window, and stopping to invite me to join their touring troupe!

i've since grown up, a bit, and have come to see (in my infinite wisdom!) the not-so-hidden charms of the canadian capital. coming from the grittiness and hyper-activity of nyc, there is something almost dutch about riding a bike alongside the canal - as a way of actually getting around! and although we are neither athletic or sports oriented, we can appreciate all the saabs rolling by with thule racks secured tightly to the roof (or a canoe, or a pair of skis, etc.).

there are, incidentally, more urbane pursuits to be found in ottawa these days. the safdie-designed national gallery of canada (we attended the opening all those years ago!) mimics the nearby earthbound parliament buildings, but studies them in lacy glass and soaring pillars of refined concrete. nicolas hoare bookstore, just across the street, is as pleasant a shop as you are likely to find anyhwere on the planet - a great, thoughtful selection of books in a nicely lit space. zone lies a bit further south on sussex drive, beckoning shoppers with it's wide variety of design objects and home furnishings (all previously reasonable priced, prior to the decline of the american empire!). further afield, we find the french baker (le boulanger francais), our favorite spot for early lunch (actually, in the back annex at what is affectionately called benny's bistro) ... a glass of wine, a crisp and artfully arranged salad, some poached fish - all yummy and tasty. and it is customary, for our family at least, to top off any and all meals with a delicious gelato from pure on elgin street ... absolutely first rate, particularly smalt (smarties, the canadian 'm&m' mixed with chocolate), or after eight (an icy confection tasting like it's namesake chocolate square). in the evenings, we can be found at the retro bytowne cinema on rideau street - a riotous affair of an old theater, replete with mezzanine hovering in the huge space ... great movies supplemented by an even great calendar.

rows of embassy homes and other stately structures dot this most picturesque and un-self conscious of cities (in the true canadian spirit of not attracting attention to oneself, the author of this blog notwithstanding). ottawa is a glorious weekend escape which pleases most in the summer, starting with the renowned tulip festival - when millions of tulip bulbs spring to life with an array of colors and styles. the plants are donated annually by holland for canada's service to the netherlands' monarchy during the second world war, when they ensconced themselves in this land.

and despite being the second coldest capital city, after ulan bator (mongolia) - at least according to trivial pursuit - it warms me to be there!

sunday times

2007-11-10T08:13:00.001-05:00

i am sitting in bed, having my latté, reading the paper with jane. saturday morning - i've usually been baking, exercising, surfing by this late hour - 8:14 - but today i'm taking a bit of a break.

so what's in the 'sunday' paper, delivered hot off the press on saturday morning? well, the travel section for certain - and there it is, at the very end, a buried nugget for me ... 36 hours in marrakech!
how lovely. how delightful. a small jewel of a gift to make me smile and recall our own exotic and opulent family journey to this fabled city in february. truth be told, having traveled to india a year earlier 'en famille', morocco came easy. it is a milder, much milder version of india. yes, of course, completely different cultures, language, food, history, organized religion; yet there is something about the stark geography of rajasthan that is parallel, in it's bold simplicity, to the snow-capped atlas mountains which ring this hip paradise. the colors too - both marrakesh and the indian desert state share this swirling, textured, and vibrant trait.

36 hours in marrakech. we were fortunate to have more than that. and, as noted in the new york times article, jad mahal. a fun bastion for jet-setting europeans who frequent this ville - loud music, lounge like seating, low lighting, updated takes on moroccan favorites - all come together for a memorable evening. and at 10:30, a special, if somewhat mysteriously rare treat ... belly dancers. the music pumps, and out from the shadows emerge a multitude of women, with large platters secured to their head, almost like giant heavy bonnets. the women, all dressed in white, are the 'mature' dancers - probably in their mid to late '40s - and they sway gently, but in unison, to the wave of music which rhythmically sweeps the place. they are covered in silken dresses, and atop their headpieces are a plethora of burning candles of various heights and sized. i suppose one of their main tasks, in addition to getting the crowd going, is to ensure that they don't give you an unwanted waxing!

when these gentle doyennes of dance complete their choreographed moves, the 'younger' and intentionally 'sexy' dancers come out, setting the place ablaze. their is, at jad mahal, an inner courtyard - a common place feature in many moroccan edifices - and in this particular instance the courtyard is encased in floor to ceiling glass. combined with the soaring space and dark ambience, it is difficult to tell what is real and what is reflected ... am i seeing 'into' that space, or am i looking at a reflection on the glass enclosing the space? i assume that beyond interesting design, there's a metaphor for something in that ...

the fresh dancers really go wild, taunting male and female clients with their wily ways, hips swaying, crowd jeering in their d&g outfits - quite an intoxicating sight! the kids were in awe, really just wanting to head back to the riad to watch 'the italian job' on their flatscreen by the fire - but they hung in there and in the end really enjoyed it, as did we.

thanks for the memories!

h

caesarean section

2007-11-03T14:42:00.000-04:00

Israel, O Israel ... How did we love thee, let us count the ways -

1.Western sunsets over the balmy Mediterranean
2.Slim fit jeans and bods to match!
3.Tahini, tahini, tahini - green, red, mixed with hummus - any way possible!
4.Heat - dry desert and humid coastal
5.Tel Aviv buzz, nonstop action
6.Shekels - bills, not coins
7.Roman ruins at Caesarea
8.Hebrew and Arabic signage, a graphic-philes dream!
9.Seeing the sea and the desert in the same hour
10.Matkot - Israeli paddle ball on the beach
11.Accadia Beach, Ari, chetzi Tuborgs, and languishing in beach bars all day on the sand
12.David Citadel Hotel! - anytime!
13.Ben Yehuda Street - after Shabbat
14.Shenkin Street and great smoothies
15.Martha’s on Ibn Givriol Street at ZOA
16. Beach cliffs at Herzliya and Natanya
17.The Bakery - yummy, buttery tarts
18.The markets - Jaffa, Carmel - insanity in a word!

Tons o fun was had by all! Sitting on the plane now, waiting for takeoff from the perennially buzzing Ben Gurion Airport, after a full day - just bumped into our friend Eytan, who we dined with last night - on his way to Bucharest with all the rest!

Firstly, seriously contemplating a year long stint in Tel Aviv - so hip and cool, lots of fun, great design, frenetic pace, fantastic food. We chased the modern design options of Marrakech in February, which we thought were plentiful ... but after the past ten days in Israel I feel as if I’ve been in ground zero for cool factor. Tel Aviv port - oy - Ibn Givriol Street, Neve Tzedek, Dizengoff - how can there by so many fantastic, avant garde restaurants and shops in such density??? It’s South Beach pre-Balzac, Four Seasons, but post Sushi Samba ... amazing!

I think I could even get Jane to join me, the kids too - note to self - become fluent in Hebrew asap, shed another 10 pounds (everyone is impossibly thin, tanned, gorgeous, and nonchalant ... low slung jeans, flips, etc.) ... travel in time machine to recapture lost remnants of youth ... hmm, maybe it won’t work after all!

It was a busy few days ... let’s let it unfold chronologically, but in reverse order. Today - Sarah and Arnie left for Toronto early in the morning, and we packed up the carry-ons quickly and headed north towards Haifa. A brief stop at Aroma for lattés and we were on our way, pulling into Yemin Orde midmorning, for a tour of the village that is the rough template for the ASYV project in Rwanda. Meeting Chaim Peri, David, Ruth, Susan - a privilege and a highlight! Learning [more] about the amazing philosophy that has been embraced by the government, the Dali Lama, and countless philanthropists was fascinating. The approach that the team takes in building up the confidence of the kids who come here as a result of unfortunate and often tragic circumstances is inspiring - the entire village, which overlooks the sea and the area around Carmel, is laden with messages which help to invigorate, educate, and provide the kids with a sense of family and security.

We drove back along the coast (think Southern California) and stopped for a bit of reminiscing in Netanya, where I spent a lot of time when I was [much] younger ... although much more commercialized than when I was there, the bluffs that meet the beaches and crystal waters are still as gorgeous as ever! We popped into an internet café to print out our boarding passes for the flight home (while the kids stripped in the car and threw on their bathing suits!), and we were off towards Herzliya ... everyone was in the mood for one last ‘glida’ (gelato) so we stopped in town. The kids played basketball in the Nike store while Jane and I shopped in Habitat (much cooler than it’s European namesake) - then it was our turn to get naked in the car (aren’t we getting too old for this!?!) and ran to the beach. More beer, tahini, salads, lemonade with nana (mint), etc. - swimming in the Med, the beach was much less crowded than yesterday’s madness. We hung out with Ilana and Louis and gang (Munich contingency) and continued to hold court with Aviva, Jane’s cousin from Ra’anana. We got in the last licks of summer, watching the sunset, feet in the sand, and at 7:30 decided to pack it in. We elected to forego the Lewitans offer of showering in their nearby hotel room, and instead followed our previously unknown (and well hidden) hippy roots to shower on the beach ... a first for us, since I generally wear flip flops in most showers that do not meet the loofah test! The kids have come to the conclusion that we have flipped our lids - the documented beach showering, the dinners at 11pm, hanging out all day at the beach bar - so much for rigidity! There’s something about Israel at the end of the summer that causes one to relinquish all sanity and just go for it.

For example, are you aware that we pulled the same ridiculous stunt two days ago? After a visit to Tel Aviv University’s Cimbalista Synagogue (Mario Botta), we went into central Tel Aviv - Itzhak Rabin Square (the nearby tower block graces the cover the the City Guide to Tel Aviv) ... lunch at the previously unknown (to us) Martha’s - fantastic! Waitress: struggling actress who was living in Forest Hills, Queens for past three years; Food: delicious, delicate, elegant without being overblown or pretentious (please don’t write ‘truffle oil’ on the menu anymore - if it’s in there we’ll know it and you don’t need to justify your prices with such messages - ugghhhh!). Wine, then halvah and pecan parfait (do I need to say anything else), a quick stop at The Bakery for a tart, then onto Neve Tzedek - the roots of Tel Aviv’s European urban pioneers. Well, almost - it was 90 and sunny, so why not - once again - change in the car, swimsuits and towels forever in the back seat, and head to Banana Beach for a late afternoon dip (no, not the dip of the pita in tahini, rather a swim in the Med). Refreshing and lovely, we were well fortified for our stroll in the village like Neve Tzedek, then onward ho to Old Jaffa - mostly Arab and sumptuous by the water with splendid views of the Tel Aviv shoreline ... dinner at the unfortunately named Pu’ah was fantastic! Quaint, charming, Café Gitane-esque in it’s eclectic nature ... well fed, we moved to the next feast at Jane’s relatives in the east of the city - the entire clan was there, waiting for us patiently and graciously. The Iraqi-Israeli ruckus ensued, with the kids retiring to watch Friends in the cousin’s room (currently in the army). Is Friends on 24 hours a day in every country??? We had a fantastic, late, fun evening - everyone was so lively and fun, a real treat!!! Happy birthday Zev!

In between these days, Andi had been sick, so we mostly hung out and took it easy. Jane stayed with him, some sort of virus (ultimately leaping to her to cause her a restless night later on) ... I ventured out with my father and the older kids, along with Ilana & Louis and the girls, driving up the coast late afternoon for a visit to Caesarea, the ancient Roman ruins, and the beach with accompanying aqueduct. It was amazing, the light was fantastic, and it was quiet, being the end of the day. Really wonderful, the kids collected nautilus shells, we took a swim and yes, had more hummus, labne, and tahini by the beach there too, finally returning to find Andi much better but Jane not doing so great. My parents, zonked, went straight to bed, and we made a feeble attempt at a quick dinner near the beach, which went off once Jane really took a turn for the worse. Luckily for her (if it can be phrased that way) she was better the next morning. We zipped down to the crazy Carmel market - loud music, fruits, vegetables, underwear, sunglasses - just nuts - then out for fresh juice smoothies to the still funkified Shenkin Street before retiring back to Herzliya beach. We spent the entire afternoon lounging, drinking, eating, swimming, playing paddle ball, and chatting! Ilana, Louis, Ruggero (Milano), his assistant (former assistant to Roberto Benigni during the shooting of Life is Beautiful - Jared got a great lesson, having just seen this movie in Italian class), her Spanish friend, Ari (our Urugayan-Israeli waiter/friend) ... so great, another Tower of Babel. We ended the day at Whitehall, finally deciding that we needed to actually feed my parents a real meal - a great Shabbat dinner in town.

How could I forget - Saturday found us driving to Be'ersheva at 7 am for a visit to the Negev - desert - looking for love at the Ramon Crater deep in the south ... ibex milling about, heat, color ... then onto the ruins at Ovdat. An entire archeological site to ourselves, high above the desert floor, then onto the gorge at Ein Ovdat for a crushing hike (Sarah and Arnie in the a/c of the car). Finally, Ben Gurion's tomb and back to Herliya for a swim. We went to our friend Suzy's new apartment in Tel Aviv - magnificent and modern - for wine, cheese, and olives, before hooking up with Gili, Eytan, and the boys for a farewell dinner at the port - so delicious and so much fun ... a great 'last' evening in the metropolis! Kisses goodbye, a quick tour of Comme Il Faut, then home to bed!

So, posting this entry from the living room at home - back after a relatively easy 12 hour jaunt home on the midnight flight, and a full breakfast at the local diner at 6 am ... about to watch a DVD together (nobody wants to go to the beach on this gorgeous day - how sad!!!) ... stay tuned for more, we’re on terra firma for now though.

Happy Labor Day, hoping it’s truly labor free and fun filled!

H

PS - to see pics of our voyage visit our site and look for the Israel album!

teeny tahini, hummoungous hummus, paltry pita, and other stories

2007-11-03T14:39:00.000-04:00

Madness!

It's been an action packed few days ... Sarah's birthday celebration on Saturday, complete with a yummy lunch at the Cinematheque in Jerusalem - puts the Angelika to shame, with sweeping views of the Old City walls and incredible foccacia - then socializing with the Sinels, a swim with all of the French, South Africans, and British at the pool, and off for a funky dinner. We ate too much, drank too much, and soaked in the spirit of Jerusalem on Shabbat, which is amazing. The late evening hours found us strolling on Ben Yehuda Street, with literally thousands of teens - all looking hip, gorgeous, and all laughing, enjoying themselves.

Israeli society is extremely loose and casual, and has a real 'free' energy that we rarely find at home. Although New York is often construed as an uninhibited, it still moves to the beat of corporate America. The most corporate feeling one gets here is the ubiquitous presence of the café chain - Aroma, Café Hillel, Arccaffé (think a quicker, more stylish version of Starbucks - and better!). This is a land of youth, and as many have explained to me, when you think of going into the army at age 18 for a few years, you grow up quickly and 'have your fun' in your early teens. Frankly, I think it's more than that. Kids roam free here, yes, with cell phone in hand, but the parents are not freaked out the way that they are in America (thanks again 20/20 and all of the other hysterical minded TV shows - pump up the madness for those ratings, at the expense of our sanity!). It seems like this is, ironically, a very safe society, and I have been struck by how sheltered Jane and I are raising our kids. Yes, they've been in the souks of Marrakesh, the windy streets of Delhi, seen most of the major monuments in Europe, and spend summers in Canada at sleep away camp. But we move, essentially, in a pack. I'm not quite sure what to make of this - Jared, Marlee, and Andi have been moving about freely here, so they can clearly 'handle' it - and yet they don't have this mobility at home (not just on our busy street, but in general). There's something to be said for the independence of the kids here, which Jane herself experienced when she lived in Tel Aviv (ages 10 to 15), and then again, there's something wonderful about spending Saturday evening with the kids at the Landmark watching a movie, or hanging out at home with a DVD, or just walking in the West Village eating Magnolia cupcakes together. Who knows ...

Sunday morning I woke Jane up, much to her horror, and at 7:30 am we were driving through East Jerusalem - completely another city, fully Oriental - towards the Temple Mount/Dome of the Rock. I had been to this site 25 years ago, and of late it has not been recommended for tourists. Things seem quieter here now (although everyone else seems to feel that it's a bit more 'tense'), so I decided I had to go back. After being turned away, by Israeli security, at a number of entry points, we were able to access the site at a checkpoint adjacent to the Western Wall. So as one ascends a wooden bridge, overlooking the Kotel as early morning prayers are taking place, you suddenly find yourself way up, in a different world, a different culture. We basically had the entire plaza surrounding the golden dome to ourselves - a few kids running around, a couple of tourists, but there we were - the dome gleaming in the early morning light, a huge open space in the middle of Jerusalem, with amazing views in every direction. It was an incredibly peaceful and wonderful moment ...

Back to the hotel, swimming, a huge breakfast on the terrace (ugggghhhh - I've been living on hummus, tahini, and chopped salads - seems light until I try to do up my pants!). Sarah and Arnie have been loving the trip - the weather (a bit too hot for them), the kids, the land - so great. We packed up after more swimming, and sadly said goodbye to the David Citadel Hotel - love it there! We ended our Jerusalem experience at the Tayelet (Haas Promenade), a gorgeous stone promenade and green park with - yes - incredible views over the entire white stone city - inspiring!

An hour later we were facing the Mediterranean in Herzliya, getting settled in our hotel - sadly, not as spectacular as our former digs but can't beat the location - directly on the shores of the sea, facing west, full sun and views, lots of space - amazing! We spoke with Ilana, our friend from Munich, and quickly zipped over to Zozobra for Asian noodles (like Kelley and Ping, but on every corner here) and a big reunion with her and the girls ... so much fun, then a huge gelato - bursting!!!

Monday morning, we were invited over to Anne's home here, the wonderful woman who is the genesis for the Rwandan project. We talked about the groundbreaking which just took place, her meeting with President Paul Kagame, and the general direction of the project - so gracious. The rest of Monday found us lying on the beach, sans Dabush, our former favorite beach shack hangout (mysteriously gone after authorities had realized they'd been operating without a license - for the past 30 years?!?!?!). We made our way to the adjacent Avi's Place on Accadia Beach - the kids swimming in the Med whilst Jane and I whittled away the hours with beer and platters of salad, hummus, Moroccan cigars, (saying "MMMMMM" every five seconds) etc.. Just sitting on those chairs, enjoying the sun, the sea, the open spaces, and relaxing - a true slice of heaven in Herzliya (an upscale northern suburb of Tel Aviv). Monday evening we went to the Port of Tel Aviv, which has been kitted out with swanky outdoor restaurants, incredible modern shops, loud music, fresh food - energy!!! Everything is open til the wee hours, and it is a very hip and cool zone - again, not overly corporate or sterile, rather unique and right on the edge of the Med - again! They do know how to use their resources here (not like NYC, where the city often turns its' back on the water, facing inwards to the Park and Fifth Avenue - although would we really want to see what's floating in the East River anyhow???).

Tuesday, ahhh, Tuesday. Chaim Weizmann's private residence in Rehovot - an amazing 1937 Bauhaus building, rigid, symmetrical, modernist, and incredibly detailed! We had a fantastic private tour - truly a highlight of the trip - and got up close and personal with the life and lifestyle of Israel's visionary first President - a dynamic and deliberate character (with extremely good taste). A fantastic experience beyond words (even for me!!!). Back on the beach later that afternoon, we sat with Sarah and Arnie while the kids were playing ball and swimming, and waited for the first wave - of friends! Along came Suzy (Vivi Nassim's mother), along with her sister Gili, husband Eytan, and their three gorgeous boys ... more ball, beer, bread, etc. - lots of laughs and fun in the late afternoon sun! My mother and Suzy, who share a birthday, enjoyed a stroll along the shore while we - well - we did nothing!!! Ilana appeared for a late afternoon drink, and Gili recognized her from a chance encounter that they had at a Tel Aviv pool five years ago (and their passionate discussion about the brutality of a particular 'kikar' in the center of the city) - so here was Gili, from TA, familiar with Ilana from Bavaria - connect the dots!

The second wave followed - Tania and Ruggero, from Milano, who have been living here for one year - with their kids. They are also friends with Ilana, and Louis (who subsequently arrived, fresh off the plane from Munich) ... we had last all been together in Venezia two years ago, so it was great to hang out in Tel Aviv and rekindle old times ... we were all friends, sans enfants, in the original New York days.

Gili, Eytan, Suzy and the boys left us, and we look forward to dinner with them Saturday evening. We hung out late on the beach - 10pm - eating more giant platters, drinking, laughing, talking, the kids conversing in Hebrew, French, English, Italian - but most through playing ball and games - a real Tower of Babel. Sadly, we said our goodbyes, having tried to reach Debbie and Dino in Brussels by phone (no answer - they are also mutual friends to all of us) ... the last stragglers adamantly demanding another gelato at 11pm (so off we went to town in bathing suits - quite a sight!). My parents declined, I think they'll need a real vacation after we're done with Asia Minor!!!

Today, off to Tel Aviv to explore the original Bauhaus architecture of the White City, a bite at Sushi Samba (same as NY), a stroll through Neve Tzedek, a light dinner in Jaffa, then an evening coffee with Jane's relatives - hope we can get directions to their home, literally no one in Israel has any sense of where anything else is relative to their own position. Needing a little GPS TLC!!!

Love to all from the shores of Israel,

Harley

it's the economy, stupid!

2007-11-03T14:36:00.000-04:00

Okay, so even a staunch communist (really a socialist) can be cynical.

Is peace achievable based on economics? In reality, is what we read and see about the Middle East a symptom of political stances, which have affected the judgment of all parties? Don't people, all people, just want to provide for their families, enjoy their friends, and live in peace? I know, I know - you THINK that people are brainwashed, or are born a certain way, or are 'different' from us. BUT, this summer has provided me with a personally unique perspective on war, genocide, differences, and the only conclusion that I've drawn is that I'm totally confused and perplexed by human behavior. Has anyone read the recent article in National Geographic which indicates that humans can learn a tremendous amount from ants? Yup, the ants seem to have it all figured out - not necessarily motivated by the big picture - rather, activated by sensations which are given off 'mano a mano' ... personal interactions from one creature to the other which ultimately serve the greater good of a productive society.

So, is our subjugation of the Chinese labor force a symptom of our desire to purchase 5 dollar t-shirts at Target (my love!), with little or no regard to THEIR safety or labor conditions (unless of course there's lead in them there Mattel toys!). And on a greater scale, can't there be peace here in the the Middle East if we make the connections, one by one, person to person? All I hear is that it's totally naive, yet when I walk the ancient streets of Jerusalem, I want to, no, have to believe that it's all possible, even miraculous! I invite you to join me in my optimism, misguided as it may be - maybe we can effect change and make a difference ...

Today - sunny, hot, bright - no, brilliant! Breakfast on the terrace of the David Citadel (sadly, I have come to the chilling realization that I really DO love having my butt kissed while on vacation - how depressing, more so than my need for reading glasses from CVS!). Sinels appear, just in time for cappuccinos, kids all excited - maps out, what are we going to do? The Swedler clan heads for the Mahane Yehuda market - halvah, dried fruits, white cheeses, kippot - amazing, clean, wonderful, and exciting for the onset of Shabbat. Luckily, Gideon, our new friend, has pointed us in the direction of Marzipan on Agrippas Street for deadly rugelach - oh, the pain of it all! Too much food, so little time! Glad I've been eating Kashi bars for the last few weeks!

Through the stalls, then onto the quaint neighborhood of Nachalaot, past the bougainvillea, houses, spray painted images of James Dean, winding streets, artists, and back to the car. The searing heat called for a dip in the pool overlooking the old city back at the hotel - I even listened to Maroon 5 and Justin Timberlake on Andi's i-pod ... speedo and huge magen david completing my outfit (much to Marlee's horror!!). Swimming, ping pong, Slushees, it's all good. Even a few religious women sporting the Judaic version of burqinis (have you seen these - spandex 'dresses' with sporty stripes suitable for modest women from plying the beaches from Afghanistan - no beaches - to Cyprus). Supreme relaxation, overlooking the city, then Jane and I head up to the Executive Lounge (can you imagine us as executives!? no room for a briefcase in those speedos!), a quick iced coffee, then down to get the kids (kicking and screaming). Off to the Old City...

Jaffa Gate (huge bagels with seeds), the Armenian Quarter, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre (amazing, including the Ethiopian Monastery on the roof!), through the souks, and finally the Jewish Quarter. They've built a reconstructed version of the Hurva Synagogue over the ever present freestanding arch, how sad! Onto the Western Wall/Kotel, the kids leading the way by rote from our trip two years ago - incredible! We tied red strings to our hands (evil eye), then off to the Wall - amazing, with the Dome of the Rock in the background (which I want to visit Sunday morning, once again to Jane's chagrin!). Pre-Sabbath walk about, a quick call from Ruggero, then back to the hotel in a taxi (with Jane absurdly negotiating to save 2 dollars - you can take the girl out of Baghdad, but can't take Baghdad out of the girl!). Back 'home' for a quick change, a glass or three of wine in the Executive Lounge (again!), an episode of Friends (what else is new?), then down for Shabbat dinner with the Sinels and their cousins. We were 17 people for an amazing, incredible, filling evening (spiritually, nourishment, etc.)., the kids sitting for three hours, lots of French, English, Americans, etc.. What a night, talking about movies with Randi's cousins (lovely!), just great ...

Tomorrow brings an early morning walk, a drive to Masada, birthday wishes for Sarah, and a celebratory dinner at Arcadia before our customary post-Shabbat walk on Ben Yehuda Street (funky boutiques, loud music, young people drinking iced coffee, etc.).

Wishing you all a Shabbat Shalom and great weekend from Jerusalem,

Harley

middle yeast

2007-11-03T14:34:00.000-04:00

Shalom, y'all!

Well, 40 days at Sinai seems like nothing compared to an overnight flight to Tel Aviv!

Café Gitanes on Mott Street Wednesday morning did take the edge off - fresh citron pressé, a friande, and a café creme is not a bad way to start a journey (not even a bad as a grand finalé to an adventure). We left the heart of Nolita for ... the heart of ... Newark? Ah, New Jersey in the haze, a lovely site, although to be fair the view can't ever be that great on the way to the airport. Carryons in hand, we made our way to Terminal C for our Continent-hell flight to Tel Aviv - mercifully pre-checkin was done at home, so it was a simple stroll to the gate. Frozen yogurt, wine, pizza - we had all the airport classics, and boarded the full flight. Ten hours, twelve shrieking babies, six movies, and four Chardonnays later we were in the Middle East (or Middle Yeast, depending on how much pita one consumes).

Israel - at the shores of the Mediterranean, sunny and dry - a pleasure to be back! This time, no wait for bags, no jitters on Jane's part (carrying that Israeli passport - does she really think they'd want her in the army - they did see Private Benjamin after all!). Slightly bleary eyed, we made our way to Eldan to get the much maligned (and rightly so!) minivan - looking faux sporty in white - and drove to Jerusalem. The hills, the pines, the sun - truly gorgeous as ever, with the native white stone applied to all buildings - quite a city! Finally, past the King David, to 'our own' David Citadel Hotel - cool, modern, comfortable, we were greeted kindly and were offered gifts, dinner in honor of Sarah's birthday, wine, etc.. Nice to be spoiled, particularly amidst such refinement - off to the pool, 90 degree heat, basking and resting while gazing at the walls of the Old City! A chat with the young man putting towels on the lounges - Palestinian - brings (what everyone defines as my naive) hope for peace - person to person, everything can be solved!??! Let me dream -

Splashing about, fighting jet lag, and there were Sarah and Arnie, fresh off their Toronto flight - happy to see the grandchildren, loving Israel, looking forward to an adventure filled holiday. Is the mobile working? How about the wi-fi? Yes, all is in order, now we can get down to spirituality!!!

Jane and I left the kids to meet Gideon Hirscher, who works with Joint Distribution Committee here in Israel. We had a 3pm meeting, drove over to his offices near the Knesset Parliament, and were warmly greeted, again! We spent two hours talking about Rwanda (he's just back two days, after making provisions for the village we're working on there - educators, politicians, President Paul Kagame, etc.). We spent a lot of time discussing the feelings that I had when I was there - a gentle society that cannibalized itself thirteen years ago - and talked about different theories - how can they move forward so graciously? Murderers and victims living side by side? What lessons could Israelis learn from this, in their land surrounded by Arab neighbors (can we all learn a lesson from Rwanda's turnaround? is it real and lasting?). So many issues, so little time! Gideon is fascinating, dedicated, and passionate, a great person to talk to upon arriving - a former Californian who has been here ten years! He encouraged us to visit the Mehane Yehuda market in the morning, and to join him at his favorite hole-in-the-wall hummus joint Saturday morning (along with tea on the rooftop overlooking the Old City) if we don't make the journey to Masada (planned).

Back at the hotel, we hooked up with the kids, relaxed, showered, and got ready for dinner - we had reservations at a local restaurant but Sandra from the Citadel had arranged for us to dine in the hotel's restaurant 'on them'. We gladly did so, exploring in earnest the salads, sauces, wines and flavors of the country ... and barely made it back upstairs. Feeling a little jet lagged and full, everyone has just conked out, and I'm about to follow. Our friends the Sinels (from home) have just arrived, and we will have Shabbat dinner with them tomorrow evening, overlooking the city's ancient ramparts ... can't wait.

Wishing you all a great day from Jerusalem,

Harley

bard simpson

2007-11-03T14:30:00.000-04:00

Fabulousness continues, with a dollop of unbridled misery - so it goes!

Jane and I were treated to an amazing Saturday - having left the confines of our Long Island digs, we headed upstate towards Kingston ... a picture perfect if humid day, humming along in the Mini Cooper, with nary a care in the world. Outfitted with Total Greek yogurt and bottles of seltzer, we made our way along the west bank of the Hudson, reaching Kingston a bit later than anticipated. There, like a beacon on the hill, stood the Courtyard by Marriott, beckoning us with the promise of wood grained formica, a neat indoor pool, and 24 hour coffee center. In reality, what could be better. And guess what, it was darn near the best hotel I ever stayed in! We even opted for a room overlooking the parking lot instead of the mountains (mysteriously told that it was quieter). Overlooking Lowe's, Target, and other big box retailers, we felt happy and content!

We quickly changed: she in a dapper sundress from the Nolita Sunday market, he in Rwanda worn H&M khakis (yes, I said khakis!), skinny black tie, and safari style shirt. We crossed the Hudson, following the route through Red Hook to Lea and Vic's amazing annual feast! We were warmly greeted by our hostesses, Kathy and Gilles, and all of the other interesting and familiar faces that we've grown happy to see at this yearly event ... catching up, toasting, heckling, and talking about architecture, life, travel, food, film - heavenly and fun filled!

Most (other than those of us who become particularly slothy in the summer months) were busy prepping in the kitchen, where Victoria was lord over the lowly serfs - chopping, marinating, mashing, slicing, dicing, etc.. The table outside beckoned with fuchsia table cloth and clean, white tent ... a table set for 40? Delightful, with a smattering of gorgeous children playing tag and swimming.

We had a drink or two, and when dinner was called, all descended upon the table ... flowers, candles, tivoli lights, and great company ... Lea served as master of ceremonies, and we all were given a lovely copy of the evening's menu ... hand drawn, inspired by Roy's phenomenal wine selections - each course matched to a different beverage, perfectly suited and amazing. We were all broken into 'teams' - making the final preparations for a particular course, plating said course, and serving it (not to mention picking up the plates upon completion!). A great way to get everyone 'invested' in the spirit of the evening!

We languished for hours in the garden, slowly filling up on course after course of delicious and inventive food lovely orchestrated by Vic and Roy ... and sadly it was time to move on in the wee hours. Alas, as Jane and I got into the Mini, it had decided to sleep for the evening ... and would not start! No amount of prodding or pushing would move it, so we abandoned it and took Lea's car back to the hotel, for much needed sleep. The next morning, after complimentary coffee and a quick workout, Jane and I headed back to the house for breakfast and a quick boost ... off we motored, to nearby Bard College to see the Fischer Hall designed by Frank Gehry, architect du jour (and some jours gone by!). It was great to see and even more fun to photograph for Andi, who LOVES Frank Gehry's work. We continued on from there, passing through the lovely Hudson Valley and finally hitting I-87 ...

Traffic got a little tough as we neared the Tappan Zee Bridge - it was stop and start, more stop than start ... suddenly we heard a loud 'boom', and a second later we were rear-ended by another car, that had been hit by the vehicle behind them, plowing us into the car in front of us ... four car pileup, everyone being perfectly fine (we were barely moving), but of course our car sustained the most damage, looking not unlike a Frank Gehry building - fluctuating sheets of metal twisted in many different directions!

Fast forward two hours, police report in hand, not our fault miraculously, we continued home - stopping for a quick Fontana gyro lest we not be well fed while aggravated ... Jane with her Greek salad, me with my sandwich, in the mangled Mini - it was quite a sight!

We made it home, and decided the only remedy would be a French movie ... My Best Friend, with Daniel Auteil ... very cute, light, and perfect for the evening ...

A glass of wine took the edge off when we returned home, ready for Monday's inevitable battles - not so bad really!

Hope you had a great weekend too,

Harley

roque stars

2007-11-01T17:51:00.000-04:00

Nothing like being in four countries in ten hours! Not to mention, using every mode of transportation in that same time span ... the only thing I didn’t do to get here was portage a canoe!

Kigali, Nairobi, Brussels ... high speed train to Paris, metro to the hotel ... and finally, the City of Light and my lovely child bride. So great to see Jane, who was waiting for me in our very boutiquey room with café creme, croissants, Ladurée macarons, confitures, and all the trimmings. The sun was out full force, we relaxed and caught up on the week’s events, and just hung out (hotel: total modern design, very hip, very cool, and thankfully, VERY air conditioned!). How could I have been dressed in working clothes in equatorial Africa and been perfectly comfortable, and here in northern Europe we’re in a deep schvitz?

We finally left the hotel, and starting strolling the familiar streets. What a magnificent day, and our location is perfect - just off the Canal St. Martin, close to the Bastille. Jane really took advantage of her time alone on Saturday before my arrival - intensive stroll, two hour lunch at la Frommagerie 31 (wine, cheese, and a political discussion of American foreign policy with a Norwegian and Spaniard - good for her!). I’m happy that she had a chance to do this ... a little solitude can be very refreshing (beyond going to the dry cleaners or Stop and Shop to pick up our prescriptions!).

We had only made it a short distance when we came across a perfectly aligned row of gray bicycles ... Jane had happened to see a story on BBC before I arrived yesterday about said ‘velos’. The City of Paris government had purchased 10,000 of these bikes and installed them in groups, every 300 metres, around the city (700 locations). Yesterday, 15 July, was to be their first operational day, and guess who took availed themselves of this opportunity??? The rental fee is apparently 1 euro for the day, and you can return them to any point in the city. The concept is that ordinary Parisians will use them to get to work and run errands, thereby reducing carbon emissions, traffic, noise, etc.. Very smart, oui?

We were literally mobbed everywhere we went ... where did you get the velos? Are they heavy? How much? People were incredibly friendly and warm, and as they day wore on, literally thousands of people had taken to this new, very clever feature of Paris (we can’t even get a public toilet on the streets of New York!!!). What a day! We rode all the way up the Canal St. Martin to the MK2 Cinemas - our favorite Parisian haunt to watch a foreign movie. We got the schedule, and as it was 90 degrees, sat down for - you guessed it - the obligatory bottle of wine and green salad ... people were out, we were sitting and water’s edge, and Jane and I went intensively over Rwandese culture and politics.

We continued our journey past Montmartre, getting stopped and interviewed every few minutes. What a great spirit the city had - a real summertime feeling. Admittedly, it is very strange to be here without the kids - the last five visits have been with them - and quite frankly, lovely for Jane and I as a couple! We wheeled on, past the Louvre, Tuileries, and into St. Germain des Pres for gelato at this great place in the Buci market. It was mobbed! Jane went to fetch the ice cream, I hung out and chatted with our friends David-Alexandre and Aurelie, who happen to be in Venice right now. They are a fun French couple who we met in India last year, and although they are Parisians, they are now living in Morocco for work (he is with a multinational company). We missed seeing them in February when we were in North Africa, and we realized a couple of weeks ago that we would overlap in Paris - for today only! We arranged to have dinner with them this evening, either at their home in Neuilly-sur-Seine or at a bistro in town.

We sped quickly from the mob, past Invalides, along rue Cler, to the Champs de Mer and the ubiquitous Tour Eiffel - again, thousands of people laying on the grass, picnicking, relaxing ... amazing (think Central Park on a Sunday afternoon). Onto the quai Branly, past the new museum, and we were truly getting exhausted. We agreed it was either going to be our mutual demise, or cold ‘pressions’ (draught beers), foie gras, and a cheese plate! Off to Le Comptoir for an outdoor table, delicious food (as noted above), a tart tatin, very uncharacteristically (for us, at least) rude service (universally applied to both French and English clientele). Also, we had been here with the kids a while ago, and when Marlee ordered the cheese plate, I rudely dug in for a taste of the creamy yellow cheese in the center of the plate, shoved it in my mouth, only to discover I had ingested a huge glob of warm (yummy) butter. Guess what I did last night when our own cheese platter arrived! Oh well, some people never learn!

The city is filled with Americans, Spanish, Italians (I think there may be one or two Gaulists here too!). We sped over to MK2, bought tickets for the 10pm showing of Bubble, a new Israeli movie (great), and returned our bikes. We were planning to chain them to a pole, and when the movie ticketer saw us do this, he said we should return them at the drop around the corner. He told us it was silly to pay for the bikes if we weren’t using them, but we replied that since they were only 1 euro per day, it was no big deal - to which he replied that was only the fee for ‘subscription’ - not the actual rental fee! See, read the fine print, even if it’s in French! We scurried off, as if we had seen a ghost, got rid of those damned bikes, paid our enormous ‘facture’, and went back to the theater. The movie was superb - loved it - and we highly recommend it!

It let out a midnight, we strolled past Notre Dame, Ile St. Louis, and arrived back ‘home’ - our room was mercifully freezing, and it was most welcome.

Jane sends hugs and kisses to all, as do I -

A bientot,

Harley

bastille day

2007-11-01T17:49:00.000-04:00

Rwanda draws to a close ... I'm at the airport now, waiting for my flight via Nairobi back to Europe. Jane is already in Paris, eating fromage and walking the Seine - she arrived early this morning and is taking in the sun before the deluge begins on Monday ... rainy days in Paris? I prefer 'le soleil'.

Today was mellow ... packing up to leave, a delicious breakfast on the terrace in the warm African sun, overlooking the pool and garden ...

I went to the Genocide Memorial in Kigali with Sifa, Thierry, and Sifa's lovely children Odette and Daniel ... as I have mentioned, the scale, savageness, and speed of the genocide is beyond comprehension, particularly as one moves through the exhibits at the memorial. Horror! How do humans seemingly continuously repeat history???

There is a garden overlooking the hills of the city, and just beneath that, on a terrace a level below, are mass graves - 25,000 souls buried there. Families are constantly finding remains of loved ones, even after 13 years, so today there was about 200 people gathered for yet another burial on the site ... many families actually know where their kins' remains are, but are too poor to pay for the ceremony.

After this sombering experience, we went for lunch to Hotel Rwanda (Hotel des Mille Collines) - the hotel appears to be 'normal', yet it is amazing to think of the many people that took refuge in that place during the killings. I have been told that the rooms, although cleaned after the events, have not been renovated - the stained carpets remain where hundreds of people were packed into guest rooms ...

Paradoxically, we sat at the pool and had cold drinks and a very tasty lunch, so how bizarre is that? We laughed, talked about the week, met up with Sifa's brothers, and played 'hangman' with her kids ... really sweet. I went to a local market for an hour before heading back for my ride to the airport. We all bid fond fairwells, ready to continue our journey, both metaphorically and physically.

Thank you for following the blog this past week, and for all of your comments and support - it really made the experience fun and it was my pleasure to share my thoughts with you.

Have a great weekend, I'm off to Paris now!

Harley

parting is such sweet sorrow

2007-11-01T17:41:00.000-04:00

Top 10 things I like about Rwanda:

1. The weather (78 and sunny every day)

2. The people (also 78 and sunny every day!)

3. Downtown Kigali

4. Optimism

5. Determination

6. The countryside (land of a thousand hills - at least!)

7. Body language

8. The handshake

9. The fact that the country is starting fresh - essentially 14 years old

10. The new friends I made this week

I can honestly say that the past 7 days have been life altering in the best way possible ... inspiring, action packed, fun, and meaningful. I came to this country with gorillas and genocide on my mind, and leave tomorrow evening feeling as if I have been touched and honored in the most profound way. This has hands down been the best journey of my life!

I’ve just returned home from a dinner that the architects organized for 35 people at the most funky restaurant in Kigali (square white plates with organic food, great cold beer, etc.). The evening was organized in honor of Sifa and myself - the entire architectural office (not just our team), the engineers, wives, secretaries, contractors - you name them - bet you can’t - and they were there. In addition to a fun filled four hour soirée, traditional Rwandan dancers made lively appearances for us in our own room, and we all danced too! The spirit and energy were incredible - what an event! Speeches were made thanking me for coming from New York - my pleasure - and the project itself was feted in many ways. Additionally, after many people taking the floor, I was given a traditional ‘kings’ stick - a long cane with an ‘O’ handle - the entire item covered in horse hair and beads the color of the Rwandan flag. We laughed and I told everyone I would not use it to walk the hilly site, but would beat them if the project was being done in accordance with our desires! ... It was an incredibly touching, warm, and lovely send off ...

Today was primarily a touring day. After meeting with the architects at their office, I was delighted to find that all of the notions and concepts that we discussed this past week had been implemented into the overall scheme for the children’s village. I left feeling elated, and that my visit to Rwanda was a success - I came to assist in the proper realization of this dream, and it looks as if the work is headed in the right direction!

I was so relieved to learn that Eric and Marcellin, from the office, would be taking me to the south ... P-Diddy no more, meaning no more valium at 10 am for me. Eric drives nice and slow, the speed limit actually, setting a completely different tone on our journey. Our drive to Butare took us through the most magnificent countryside, with tall hills, deep valleys, and markets framing the view. The three of us discussed, in French, the state of world affairs during our two hour journey. These guys are highly educated and cultured, care deeply about the state of the world, the environment, and humanity, and are extremely informed. We determined that I was the optimist, Eric was the idealist (making declarations and saying ‘full stop’ after each point), and Marcellin was the cynic! Our talk continued over lunch when we arrived in the southern province, with Marcellin and Eric explaining to me the virtues of African family values and the concern they have with Western democracies ... they believe that countries need more ‘benevolent dictators’ - leaders who use their power for the good of the people to elevate all of society (taking notes GWB?), with a minimum of dissent from the population.

Rwanda has only been able to move forward with strong leaders who have insisted that the country heals by forgiving the past and going forward from there. When I first arrived one week ago, the genocide did not appear to be on the surface. As I prepare to leave for Europe, it seems to be (understandably) a huge part of everyone’s life. Although it is constantly mentioned officially in the press, one is given the initial impression that it is in the past. It is not. Yet, everyone moves forward, feeling the Rwanda has the potential for incredible growth and development.

I asked whether it is difficult for outsiders (the ubiquitous Ugandans, Kenyans, and Congolese) to adjust to life in Rwandan society when they move here for work. I was repeatedly given the same answer - the country is only 13 years old, and they are fully accepted in all circles, and are welcomed. As many of the Rwandese who currently live here arrived post 1994 (many had been born in Congo and Burundi and only moved to Rwanda as adults), they too are ‘new’ to the country.

Our journey took us through the national university campus (tuition is $10 a year, with a $50 per month subsidy paid to each student - kind of like US schools, no?), and on to the National Museum. I was given a one hour tour with an English (?) speaking tour guide - when I asked Marcellin and Eric how long they had known her, they stared at me blankly and said they just met her. It seems as if they were old friends, chatting in a relaxed way and laughing (no body language whatsoever). At one point I turned around, and the docent and Eric were walking holding hands! So, more Rwandan idiosyncrasies ... men and men, women and women, and men and women hold hands briefly while walking. When they want to make a point they will often snap their fingers then point at something. When they want to express how much they like something, they will say ‘I like it TOO much’ or will say ‘it is TOO nice’. After the tour, the guys bought gifts for Jane and the kids in the gift shop - so sweet - for me to take him, imploring me to return with the family as soon as possible (asap - Eric recently received an email asking for something ‘asap’ - no periods between the letters - and couldn’t make any sense of it!).

Eric had actually bumped into his friend Vivien (male) so we offered him a lift back to Kigali ... although we were stopping at the Kings Palace on the way back to see the traditional round Rwandan huts. By the time we got there, it was closed, but Vivien knew someone who knew someone, and before we knew it the gates were opened. We had a private tour of the site, as the sun was setting - incredible! The monochromatic textures of the natural materials were amazing.

As we approached Kigali, I was told that they would drop me back to the hotel, and that they would pick me up within 30 minutes, after I had a chance to shower (okay already, I’ll take a shower! shheeez!). Off we went to the dinner!

I really had a chance to talk with everyone, which was great! Kiki, the head honcho, wanted to know my secret for staying a ‘normal size’ as he put it ... even here they’re worried about their weight and staying in shape! The clutches of botox cannot be far behind!

Jane is on her way to Paris right now, and I am looking forward to joining her Sunday morning. Tomorrow I am visiting the Genocide Memorial, and hope to hang out a bit and relax. I have a long flight back - Kigali to Nairobi, Kenya - then onto Brussels, then the high speed train to Paris - hopefully Jane will have breakfast waiting for me when I arrive!

Wishing you all a great evening and Shabbat Shalom,

Harley

rwanda civic

2007-11-01T17:33:00.000-04:00

For those of you who have not yet booked into Costa Rica for Christmas, please consider the following, as noted in today’s edition of the New Times:

“At the first sight, Jambo Beach Muhazi, one is immediately attracted by its new grass-thatched huts, different from the previous look. Under the new management, Jambo Investment Group, renovations have been made giving the place a new ambiance. Despite the fact that the beach misses the lake side sand and is also very small, people enjoying the remaining option of boat riding and sitting by the side of the lake as they share a bottle or two, a buffet, or some sort of snacks. Nothing is as exciting as taking off in one of the two available boats, or seeing the crane bird that has attracted foreigners to take its picture”.

So, let me get this straight. There’s two boats, a crane bird, and a partridge in a pear tree, right?

Before I get into the day, which was amazing, let me start with my late afternoon. Today we worked through lunch so we could get Sifa, my peer, back to her family at a decent hour - the resulting and unexpected benefit for me was my early arrival back to my luxurious home (how will I ever cope with Windex again!). On the way here, we had passed through a different part of the center of town (ie. one block away from where I was the other day) and it was mobbed with people. Don’t forget, we’re just below the equator, so even though it is light out well into the evening at home, the sun sets (pitch black!) at 6:30 at night. So, at 4:30, the city took on the certain orange glow, with the light changing rapidly minute by minute. I quickly changed and walked back into town, so happy to see a bit more in the daylight hours.

When I reached the main commercial area, I was in heaven. Even I, who as you know, can blather on and on, was at a loss for words. There were so many people out, just hanging, strolling, shopping - sharply dressed (now I know where the men get those great pointy shoes!), eating, meeting, greeting... it was, to be quite corny, a literal kaleidoscope! I cannot possibly describe it ... suffice it to say, it was balmy, sunny, relaxed, and easy. Although it was completely full of life, it was not noisy, polluted, or ‘scary’ - on the contrary, I felt secure and really enjoyed myself, photographing everything I could to savor the flavor of the day (eat your heart out Baskin Robbins).

After walking for a couple of hours, I headed to an indoor ‘mall’ which contained an Arab run supermarket - actually, more like Target Kigali. Very cool, with every product organized in an orderly fashion - German toothpaste, Kenyan yogurt, candies from Uganda, and lots of stuff from Dubai. As my lone bag is stuffed with work clothes and a small wardrobe for Paris, I limited myself to purchases which were flat (there were none). There is not ONE t-shirt to be purchased in Rwanda that actually says Rwanda! No bumper stickers! No national flags - frustrating, as my usual purchases are unavailable ... sorry, kids!

Back to square one ... an early wakeup call, down for a huge breakfast at 6:15 (I’m addicted to the roast tomatoes with cheese - yup, 6:15 in the morning - don’t ask!). Off to the workout room overlooking the pool, which incidentally puts any ‘centre de remise en forme’ I’ve seen anywhere else to shame! Malheureusement, the South African gentleman on the treadmill next to me was humming loudly, almost chanting whilst walking, throwing off my rhythm and obstructing my audible association with BBC playing on the tv. It’s always something ... never mind about global warming! Let’s sweat the small stuff!

I may have lead you astray yesterday. I’m not so sure they say ER-wanda here ... I’m beginning to think it’s actually ‘RANDA’ ... you say potato, I say potato, etc... We had a very productive meeting with the architects yet again, they have mysteriously switched back to setting the conference room with bottled water and not the short-lived mango nectar I had briefly grown accustomed to. A good choice I think, despite the article I read in the New York Times the other day detailing the efforts of Alice Waters is spearheading - upscale and socially conscious restaurants should only be serving tapwater. Bottled water uses additional resources (plastics, transportation to deliver the water, energy, etc.) and she has encouraged others to follow suit. As restauranteurs produce more profitable income from the sale of this beverage than any other item on their menu (so much for seared foie gras!), they have decided to let her lead the way. Go ask Alice.

I digress. As we were preparing to leave for our working lunch, Kiki (the grand patron) informed us that a retaining wall in Kigali had tumbled over, burying alive 20 people. It was directly across the street from the Indian restaurant that we were going to, so P-Diddy, our driver, immediately rushed us to the scene of the accident. Horrible, as they were using bulldozers to dig out the survivors or deceased. As it turns out, 3 people were killed, not 20, but obviously tragic nonetheless.

We had a great Indian lunch, in a faux Indian temple with Rwandans dressed up in faux Indian clothes (does this mean the chicken was actually tofu?). Yummy, and we got a lot accomplished, before speeding off to meet the contractor for our project. Their anacronym is FAIR - let’s hope say. They seemed happy to receive us, even though the scale of our very large project is minute compared to the tower blocks they are constructing. At any rate, they were gracious and set us up in yet another conference room with the obligatory beverages (I had loaded up on Indian chai masala at lunch so I had reached my quota). They pledged their assistance and commitment to this venture which is helping to build their country (although everyone is actually from Congo, Uganda, or Kenya). After a tour of the concrete mixing facility (conjuring up nasty images from the episode of Six Feet Under when someone meets their untimely demise in a similarly scaled mixer), we hit the road for a grand tour of some of the contractor’s other projects. I rode shotgun in the right-driver-sided BMW ... no wonder it feels like home! We walked through the sites, and Fred, the contractor, was a real pleasure. He and Kiki actually had traveled to Israel a while back to visit Yemin Orde, the model for this project ... they loved it there! I am looking forwarding to my own visit to the village next month when we are in Herzliya.

When I returned to the hotel after my grand afternoon stroll, I was totally invigorated! I did some more work, then Alain (aka Will Smith) called and said he’d drop by for a drink. I was just going down for a light bite on the terrace, so I enjoyed my samosas (delicious!) and beer while reading the paper. Alain joined me and we had a very lengthy discussion about Rwanda’s reconstruction and recovery ... how the country has banded together, but every April, when the rains begin, it is difficult for people to forget the horrors of the genocide. We discussed the great economic opportunities that exist here, in the ‘virgin economy’ (sorry Richard Branson, hope I’m not infringing on the trademark!). The Rwandans are constantly being encouraged by the press and the government to continue to elevate the standards of their work ethic, and to strengthen their resolve to help educate, make women equal partners, wipe out malaria, fight poverty and ignorance, etc.. There is even a model for the three child household - the first three are free (school, medical care, etc.), the you pay for the services of the children born after... Jane, we could actually live here after all!

And speaking of Jane, we had a little phone conference, and she’s off to Paris tomorrow. I, on the other hand, am traveling to Butare to see the countryside, visit the Kings House, and see the museum. It is actually the architects that are taking me on my excursion - when we return to Kigali in the late afternoon, I have been informed that I will take a shower (okay, I guess I will then) and we will all go out for a farewell dinner (with Alain and Sifa too, others joining I’m sure). Too soon to leave, not enough time, but overall, extremely fulfilling and fascinating!

Kisses from Kigali,

Harley

A Fish Called Rwanda

2007-10-24T20:40:00.000-04:00

The sports section of the Rwanda newspaper reports:

“The national basketball team arrives this morning after a two week tour of North Africa. The 22 man team is expected to arrive at 11 am at Kanombe Airport aboard Kenya Airways. The team has been undergoing a series of build-up games as part of its preparation for the African Cup Basketball Championship that throws off (?) August 15 in the Angolan capital of Luanda. On top of testing their strength against Tunisia and Egypt, the tour was also supposed to help the team get exposed to much more improved court facilities than it is expected to meet in Angola.”

I’ve also been told, quite discreetly, that the Indonesian hockey team will soon be playing scratch matches with Thailand and India in order to sharpen their skills!

Welcome back, friend. I am really getting stuck on this place! Is it just the sheer joy of traveling and working, spending a bit of time on my own (no offense to Jane or the kids!), having quiet dinners, reading the paper, and the exhilaration of meeting new people from a completely different culture? Or is it really Rwanda? Or, as they pronounce it here, ER-wanda.

This morning, when I met my colleague Sifa, I asked her what ‘nani’ means. Rwandans do three interesting things linguistically - they say ‘nani’ a lot, peppered into sentences when providing me with an explanation. “This stonework is, nani tilework”, or “The building is nani a secondary school”. So, it was explained to me that this is a Swahili word for ‘like’ or ‘similar to’. The second interesting thing they express is the sound ‘mmmmm’ - it’s almost used the same way a Westerner would use the word ‘uhhh’, except it’s a bit more of a pause (not without it’s own dramatic effect!). Lastly, the main language is Kinyarwanda, which is universally spoken, with most people speaking English and French as support languages. So when someone is talking to me, they will chat me up in French, switch to English halfway through, go back to French, and so on. I’m beginning to think that I understand them perfectly!

Today we met with the architects for the project we are realizing, and it was an extremely productive meeting. As it happens, I was given a mango juice yesterday whilst on my tour of the city (I professed my love for it!), and lo and behold, this morning the conference room was stocked up with said beverage - that just about sums up how thoughtful the people are here. I declined the extra sugar and went for my customary Rwandan tea - delicious!

We were expected in Rwamagana by early afternoon (province of the site for the work) to make a presentation to the governor of the province. He had arranged for us and the architects to give him, his underlings, and the mayor a powerpoint presentation in an open air salle de reunion (meeting hall). So, off we went from Kigali - one car with three people from the architect’s office, and the other car with Sifa, myself, and ‘Kiki’, the grand patron (boss) of the office - his driver had us in the Mercedes. Kiki (officially, Bertrand) is a dynamic and intelligent guy, smart but sensitive, who started his firm originally in the Congo (Democratic Republic of, are formerly Zaire). He is wealthy by any standards, has two sets of twins (ages 9 and 6), lives in a villa - well, you get the picture. He also looks a bit like a young Idi Amin, but is a much more benevolent dictator!!! I like him a lot, not least because he is dedicated to this project and is really giving of his own personal and professional resources to realize it!

I have driven slash been driven in many places in the world, but today’s journey was ‘white knuckle’ all the way. This slickly dressed driver, Prada sunglasses and all, looked like P-Diddy sans the handgun. He sped deliberately but scarily across the countryside, often times brushing by the colorful pedestrians passing on foot or bike - I literally was dreaming of ‘landing’. But we made it safe, first visiting the governor in his office (meeting in Kinyarwandese). The ubiquitous image of the President, Paul Kagame, was framed on one wall, while the flag of Yemin Orde, the model for our project in Israel, graced another wall. I sat comfortably on the ivory Ligne Roset sofa trying to understand the French-laced conversation. After a few moments we left for our ‘conference’.

We met up with the rest of our team at the open air pavilion, which did have one smooth white wall for projections. Birds chirped all around us while the powerpoint LCD presentation was prepared. A buffet lunch was offered (read: insisted upon) - fish kebabs, go figure. Quite good, actually! Everyone whipped out their macbooks, futuristic cell phones, and other toys - and connected instantly and wirelessly! Amazing! All of the men, sharply dressed, sported cufflinks and pointy Aldo-style shoes. I was asked to make a presentation, and since I practically am fluent in the local dialect, it was no problem for me get across the essential qualities of the concept based on the interdependency and value of the mind/body/spirit tri-part ideal. Can’t really say it in English, either.

The meeting was great, the governor totally supportive and responsive, pressuring the mayor to throw behind his own city resources to help us get the work done. Very impressive, and we even extended the conversation to upgrading the nearby town (schools, health clinic, market) and attracting foreign investment and tourism at a nearby provincial lake.

Speaking of foreign investment, you’ll be happy to know I’m not the only person from the Syosset Central School District here. Our own (former) Natalie Portman is visiting (as is the head of Macy’s - gorilla treck). I believe I heard that Ruth Messinger will be here soon - it’s becoming like the Meatpacking District on a Saturday night here - did someone just say Nobu Kigali?

We ended the afternoon with an incredible stop at the site - it was spectacular this time, even more so than the other day. Our whole team was present, the sun was going down, the hills were alive with (not musical) goats, and a large group of local kids descended upon us. It was just one of those magical moments.

Another terrifying drive back to town (seatbelts working!) brought me home feeling exhausted, challenged, and exhilarated. I’ve had my beer, a burger and fries, hot apple pie (creature of habit), and after a quick video chat with my lovely wife, I’ll be off to sleep.

A demain,

Harley

Les Etudiants

2007-10-24T20:33:00.000-04:00

Excerpt from today’s edition of The New Times:

“Students do not respect elders they share public transport with. School girls put on like market women vendors. Boys dress like American gangsters. This is crazy! Discipline in Rwandan schools is still lacking. Uniformity is a key in schools’ discipline. Pupils need to dress uniformly - socks, shoes, and uniform shirts/trousers/dresses. Some parents argue that they are too poor to buy their kids uniforms, yet afford much more expensive gangster attires. The shabby way students dress here cannot be the Rwandan way! What kind of adults shall we have tomorrow if kids dress like gangsters?”

Hey! Just because your behind is hanging out of your pants doesn’t mean you’re a gangsta!

And speaking of discipline, let’s not forget the genocide that happened in Rwanda 13 years ago. President Paul Kagame officiated at ceremonies marking this anniversary on July 4th, with an optimistic eye towards the peaceful reconstruction of the country. Not only are intensive efforts underway to solve the social problems of the country, but this tiny East African nation is actively seeking, and getting, economic investment from around the globe. The old notion of peace through prosperity (or hopeful prosperity) seems to have taken root here.

The interesting and jarring thing for me, as a foreigner, is the dichotomy between the people here and the very recent events of the past. The typical Rwandan, to me, is humble, quiet, well presented, honest, and reserved. How did a nation comprised of such individuals implode, bringing death to approximately 1 million people in 3 months? More astonishing is the ability of the populace to actively forgive and move forward - Tutsis and Hutus live side by side, hand in hand now. They work together, eat together, and run this country together. There are those who have killed, who, after admitting guilt, are free - they live in the same communities as the survivors of their victims. And there seems to be no outward animosity, mistrust, or division in the society.

Today, the author Immaculé Ilibagiza, who wrote the best-selling book ‘Left to Tell’ about the genocide, was at the hotel for an interview (I missed her). Her biographic tale spells out her own story of survival, faith, and healing here. It seems almost naive in its faith based explanation of the genocide, the ever present genocide (in the press at least), yet this is how she and many others survived.

Interestingly enough, this is one of those rare countries where America is ‘tops’ as someone told me today. The US is constructing a new, huge embassy here ... and is actively seeking to garner more support and create a base in this stable republic. In light of the not too distant embassy bombings in neighbors Kenya and Tanzania, I can only assume that the American presence allows our administration to monitor events in East Africa. I have been told that the current airport in Kigali will become a military base for the US, and that they will construct a new civil airport for the capital. Additionally, and all of you out there that scoff at my love of Paris, macarons, St. Germain, Citroens, and all things French - you will be happy to know that France is positively vilified in Rwanda. Their embassy is vide - empty - and in recent days the press here has run accounts of how the French government tacitly gave their permission for, or at minimum turned a blind eye to the slaughter here. The accounts, which first ran in the French papers, has been reproduced widely. Paradoxically, the Belgians, who formerly had a presence here and have offered their apologies for not doing more, still thrive here - building projects, aid workers, etc..

Kigali is, as it turns out, a large city after all - not huge, but bigger than I thought. There are neighborhoods that sprawl out from the city center, fanning out across the hills - although there is certainly poverty here, the city seems quite orderly (and is positively spotless!!!). Certainly in relation to a more developed country like India - which is a swirling mass of color, noise, teeming masses of people, livestock etc.. I was able to take a 3 hour tour with my Rwandan colleagues today, looking at architectural projects and construction sites. At the technical college we visited, I was the freak show - a stranger first of all, and a white stranger at that! Now, once again, believe me - these students seemed sophisticated in matters of dress, mannerisms, subject content, etc.. Maybe it’s just me - all those rings on my fingers, my hip huggin’ pants, etc.!!!

In addition to my ‘tour’ I had a good working day. I met up with my colleague Sifa in the morning - she was meeting with the head of an NGO which provides assistance to households that are headed by children (ie. orphans who are living on their own, caring for siblings in many cases). This particular non-governmental organization works with about 5,000 such individuals! He was kind enough to give us a lift to the architects’ office, where we basically hammered out more concepts for the village being built in the countryside. Tomorrow we will travel there, meeting with the governor of the province, who has given his support for the work. If only everyone could be as accommodating! Our group recently purchased a Land Cruiser for use here - it was bough in Dubai, where it is about half the cost of what it would be here, in this landlocked country. The car was shipped to Mombassa and driven across East Africa, finally entering Rwanda on Sunday. It has been in customs awaiting (ever-changing) paperwork before it is released - a guarantee by a bank that if the car is sold the tax will be paid on it (we are tax exempt). Even that status has to be re-ratified by an ‘act of congress’!

I love how Rwandans shake hands (which absolutely every male does as a sort of ‘hello’ greeting) ... they kind of slap their hand at you (almost a horizontal ‘high 5’) then grasp your hand firmly. It’s very hip. Others just kiss 3 times, kind of putting us 2-cheekers to shame! I get the handshake from everyone, including 3 of the hotel porters who spotted me in town the other day and are now so happy to see me in the lobby every time I go out.

Food was great today too - I had lunch with Sifa and Alain (aka Will Smith) at an Indian restaurant - very good indeed, nothing fancy. I was so exhausted this evening I went to the main ‘fancy’ restaurant at the hotel and had a huge, absolutely delicious meal. I inquired today as to why there are no fast food chains here, particularly in light of the aforementioned love of America! We’d love to get our hands on those trim Rwandans and ply them with a dose of our own saturated fat and corn syrup! I was told flat out that the one thing Rwandans do not import is food - everything is locally grown or produced, and is always fresh. Bravo!

A bientot,

Harley

Gettin' Jiggy With It

2007-10-24T20:28:00.000-04:00

Excerpt from The New Times, the main English language newspaper in Rwanda:

“Household electronics should not be a priority acquisition for those with a limited source of income. It is a bad financial move to buy items that take money from your pocket and continue to suck out money to maintain them. A tv will increase electricity bills in addition to the monthly subscription to the pay tv provider. It is preferable to acquire productive assets like buying a hen or goat or cow [ do they make flat screen cows?]. After a few years, these assets will yield enough money to acquire the electronics that every urbanite so much desires.”

And where, pray tell, would said urbanites house the much touted blue chip livestock?

Hello from the comfort of my 5 star cocoon!

I’m beginning to feel like I live here, but I know I don’t (as I never get turn down service at home!). The hotel feels a bit like the movie Casablanca - everyone is a foreigner, and all seem intently focused on some sort of project. Every single person is in a meeting with someone else, and it seems as if they are all talking about the Clinton Global Initiative or the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation. So-and-so recently gave up investment banking for early retirement so they could put their time and resources into building a village school here. The couple at the next table had Bill Clinton over for a parlor session when he was back in their native Arkansas to help with their efforts in higher education in Kigali. Mr. X and Mrs. Y wouldn’t think of bequeathing their stocks to anyone other than the Gates Foundation ... Everyone else seems to be a displaced resident from the US Embassy, an NGO aid worker, on the 5 star safari circuit (with Rwanda being the gorilla in the mist stop), or part of an Evangelical group that is doing outreach and comminity building in this African nation. Anyone that is not part of the aforementioned groups is casually discussing their recent business dealings in Uganda, Mozambique, Kenya, or Burundi (who knew that there WAS such a place?). A bit different than the geography soup that I’m used to hearing daily - Aruba, Venice, Hawai’i, etc. - and very cool!

The other thing that’s kind of funny is that the entire hotel, including the grounds, is wi-fi, so every single person is walking around with a laptop, typing quickly between meetings, or checking emails, etc.. A whole other culture, and new to me - I haven’t stayed in an upscale ‘business’ hotel in some time - funny!

Today was a work day, and I got picked up at 9am. It has been lovely here today, 80 degrees and sunny, dry, and clear, so it made getting into my black clothes very easy! My colleague Sifa and I had a long morning meeting with the local architects who are working on the project ... they are warm, gracious, and generous, and we have a lot of work to do this week! We conducted our meetings in French and English, switching back and forth as necessary to clarify concepts and get the meaning across...

We went for coffee and a panini (yes, that’s what I said) to a spot overlooking the many hills - as mentioned the city has the topography of Jerusalem, but the look of San Diego or Coral Gables (but more worn, of course) ... lots of broad boulevards, but small scale buildings that look as if they could be raised and replaced with huge office blocks - it’s already starting to happen as Kigali lurches forward. At our lunch spot (Bourbon Café) the inhabitants, all connected to the internet via wi-fi again, were incredibly dressed - slick, sharp, and formal - quite unbelievable (think Iman gone Rwandan!). I KNEW I should have packed my white patent shoes!!! Alain came back to get us, and did I mention that he is a carbon copy of Will Smith? No joke! Fresh Prince!

Back at the hotel, I worked all afternoon on the terrace overlooking the grounds and the pool, and even ‘IM’ed’ with Jane sporadically - I feel like a pre-teen!

I had a nice dinner in one of the hotel’s open air restaurants (and saw a few mosquitoes, may be malaria ridden by the end of all this!). All of the tourists were dressed in nativer Rwandan clothes (a cross between South African and Indonesian batik), while all the Rwandans were slickly outfitted in Juicy - the Serengeti is always greener on the other side! Linda Rondstadt’s Blue Bayou wafted softly through the night air, feels like I’m living a soft rock commercial (although I am a fan!).

LOL
Harley

First Full Day in Africa

2007-10-24T20:20:00.000-04:00

The sun rises on Africa!

Still not quite used to the time zones (I'm notorious for getting jet lag if I go to New Jersey) and had a self-imposed wakeup call at 6 am today ... it was nice and quiet at the hotel, and I was fortunate to go down for an early breakfast only to find that I had the hotel to myself. I had a huge, yummy petit-dejeuner on the terrace overlooking the pool and the hills of Kigali (Rwandan coffee is delicious, French press style)... and the yogurt with honey from the countryside - great! After a quick workout (damn that treadmill!) I got ready for the day ahead.

My peer, Sifa, picked me up at the hotel, along with her two children, ages 9 and 7, who are adorable and polite (it's their first time in Rwanda too; the family lives in Boston the rest of the year). Sifa's husband Joseph, and her brother Alain, also joined us, and we headed off from Kigali for the countryside - and more specifically, to Rwamagana (closer to the border with Tanzania). It was early Sunday morning, so there were a fair number of people out, on their way to church ... Christian faith being a legacy of the Germans and Belgians who were present here. People in Rwanda are fairly formal, so there were men in suits and women in colorful dresses headed down the streets. The roads, both in the city and in the country (highways) are well marked and paved, so we had an easy ride for one hour. The countryside is beautiful - bananas growing everywhere, sorgum, corn - all along rolling hills and deep valleys. As Rwanda is 2000 metres above sea level, it is not the 'dry and dusty' Africa many of us imagine. It is green and fertile, with a deep red soil. It seems as if every inch is cultivated, and the homes in the country are relatively simple affairs - mud and branch, often with tin or tile roofs. There are domesticated animals, but not a lot of them. Additionally, despite this being the most densely populated country in Africa, it seems very open and un-crowded to me.

We did arrive at the site, after veering down the 9km dirt road off the highway ... a bumpy red patch, but we landed safely. The project I am involved with will be built on this property, which is huge - it is likewise hilly, with sweeping views down and out towards Rwanda's southern neighbor, Burundi. I was totally inspired walking the site, which is really gorgeous, and is rather wild right now ... we even picked ripe mangoes and brought them back to Kigali with us! It is hard to believe that this open, parklike land will one day be the village for 500 orphans of the genocide of 1994, plus support families, staff, a huge school, library, clinic, dining hall, computer lab, etc.! We will return to the site on Wednesday with the rest of the local team, and will really dig our heels in. Many of the people I encountered in the country were shocked to see a 'white' person and didn't quite know what to do with me (I don't bite!). Interesting...

We headed back along another dirt road towards the highway to Kigali, bypassing the 'town', a relatively modest square with people passing through. We did stop to pick up a snack for Sifa's kids at a 'grocery' which had perhaps 12 items in varying quantities for sale - medical soap(?), cookies, Portuguese wine - all incongruous and very few items seemed necessary! By the time we headed back to Kigali, we had a lively discussion about Rwanda's recent history, and the reconciliation and confrontation that is inevitable when victims and perpetrators continue to reside together ... no easy solutions, and Rwanda has pulled together somehow to make sure that the country moves forward peacefully - incredible, really.

We went to the famous 'Hotel Rwanda', actually called the Hotel des Mille Collines (1000 Hills, as both the capital and the country is made of very hilly terrain - in fact, Kigali has the exact same topography as Jerusalem). We were too late for lunch, so I headed back to my hotel, the rest of the crew went their way, and I was able to have a video chat with Jane between her many engagements (she never seems this socially active in my presence!!!). It was nice catching up, and I had a quick lunch (Rwandan beer and lamb samosas - yum! - even though a small band was very hiply belting out Shakira and Madonna tunes) before venturing out for a walk downtown ... it was a great stroll, very quiet and peaceful, and as the temperature rarely rises above 80 degrees here, most comfortable. The buildings in Kigali are simple and semi-1950's ... the city does have a nice scale, and when I got downtown (mainly a fountain and planted area which could be found at the Fountainbleu in Miami before it was renovated) I bumped into three of the 'doormen' from the hotel (furitively calling me out despite my attempts to ignore them, until I realized who they were - incredibly friendly!). I visited a huge supermarket (Spiderman plates, cookies imported from Dubai, toys made in Pakistan) and Bourbon Café - a protegé of Starbucks, strategically placed overlooking the hills.

I took a long walk back, and Sifa called me to arrange a meeting for us to review the schedule for the week (I even have a Rwandan cell number now, handy for arranging appointments!). By the time I made it back it was meeting time, so Sifa, Alain, and I had a drink on the terrace and strategized how to best approach our work this week to gain the maximum benefit. I believe we were successful!

One more draught beer, a nice goat stew while watching the tennis matches on the flat screen in the outdoor bar, and it's time to regroup for tomorrow...

Wishing you all the best from the heart of Africa,

Harley

Hello from Kigali, Rwanda

2007-10-24T20:14:00.000-04:00

Hello all!

Greetings from Rwanda's capital Kigali. I arrived a few hours back from Bruxelles, after having a wonderful 18 hour visit with our dear friends Debbie and Dino. We had a terrific time catching up - we haven't seen each other since we were in Amsterdam together in November - so it was great arriving to their home in Belgium, hanging out, i-chatting with Jane, and enjoying a glass of real Belgian beer and frites with them. So nice to have such good friends, even if they are a plane ride away! Thanks Debbie and Dino for your hospitality, warmth, and good times!

I left Bruxelles this morning for my flight to Africa ... after arriving with my characteristically lone piece of luggage, I was able to pass immediately through security so I could quickly grab my second café - the first was with my bleary eyed hosts this morning in their kitchen, poor souls! I enjoyed my latté and was able to quickly write to the kids in camp, espousing the virtues of Belgian chocolate, beer, and frites!

At the gate for my Brussels Airlines flight, I felt like a real schlepper! Although the majority of those flying seemed to be non-African (a good number of American missionaries, young people, and Europeans), the Rwandans boarding stole the show. Talk about grace! Youthful, incredible smiles, humble, yet confident, it was clear to see what I was going to experience this week in Kigali. Each person was dressed more fashionably than the next, and not in a self-conscious or pretentious way ... simply gorgeous. Slender, fit, and with the most glorious chocolate colored skin I've ever seen, they boarded the flight with charm and ease, wearing Roberto Cavelli belts, Prada shoes, ties and slim fitting jackets - very 'cool' looking, ipods in hand. I had been warned in all honesty - recently I attended a meeting for the project I am working on here, and as it was an advisory board conference, I uncharacteristically wore a suit. At the end of the afternoon, I remarked that I knew I wouldn't be doing that in Rwanda, to which my colleague Sifa responded that the people I would be meeting with take their positions seriously, and dress accordingly! (So off to H&M I went, looking for business attire!).

We left Belgium a bit late this morning, but flew through fantastic weather with clear skies, affording me the opportunity to peruse the landscape below ... I was surprised to see that we were flying over the Greek islands, directly above Mykonos, Crete, Santorini - then across the azure Mediterranean to what I thought was Libya, but was in fact Alexandria, Egypt. Down the Nile we followed our flight path, into Sudan just to the east of the infamous Darfur region. After reading a book yesterday by a survivor of the Rwandan genocide in 1994, it was disheartening to think of what is going on in that area, and eastern Chad, while the world seemingly stands by. For those who have not had the chance, Vanity Fair is running a series of articles addressing this, and other issues in Africa this month, which makes worthy reading.

Upon leaving Sudan's airspace, it was a quick hop over Uganda, just to the west of Entebbe, and at that time the sun set (it goes away early here, 2 degrees south of the Equator - around 6:30pm, as opposed to Northern Europe - last night in Bruxelles the sun set at 10:30pm!). From there, it was a final jaunt into Kigali ... a smooth approach, quick disembarkation to the terminal, and very quickly through immigration (and yes, that French is really coming in handy!). I was met immediately by my colleague Sifa, and her brother Alain - they are native Rwandans who's family were touched by the horrors of 13 years ago, yet retain the characteristic grace and good nature of the Rwandan people. It was a comfortable 70 degrees when I landed, and having traveled to India and Morocco recently, I can guarantee that Rwanda is tame relatively speaking! The people are gentle and solicitous, warm and friendly (that ever present smile!) - Kigali is a city free of plastic bags (to eliminate trash and to be 'green' this was ordered by Paul Kagame's government last year). Today was a monthly 'cleanup' day for the city - similar to what I used to do at summer camp as a kid (the 'sweep') - anyone out before noon is required to work on beautifying the city by picking up trash, gardening, etc.. Even foreigners, if out and about, are required to participate!

I arrived to the hotel, which is gorgeous in an urban/resort way, and was offered fresh orange juice while checking in (which took no more than 30 seconds!). I was quickly shown to my room, on the top floor overlooking the grounds, with all of the amenities one could imagine from a 5 star hotel ... wifi, fluffy robes, oversized safe, etc.. After unpacking, I went down to the pool for a large 'pression' of Rwandan beer and had a light dinner (10pm) of more frites, and a baguette sandwich stuffed with Rwandan grilled vegetables - aubergines, tomatoes, and particularly good sweet green peppers.

Off to bed now, as I'm going to visit the site for our inspiring project at 9 am tomorrow morning ... wishing you all the best from Africa, and looking forward to sharing the rest of my story with you during the week!

Love Harley